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|BMS 400 CC advice/help
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|Author:||bwheelz05 [ Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:42 pm ]|
|Post subject:||BMS 400 CC advice/help|
Good morning folks
Long time listener, first time caller-
I purchased second hand a 2010 BMS 400cc buggy. To say the very least--- Ive been had.
The first thing is the slop and poor engagement when shifting gears. The selector is worn....very worn. It has a huge amount of slop/play and doesn't return to its center position after selection and either 'sticks' or 'jumps' out of the selected gear. Fixable though- I have ordered a new selector assembly from BMS online. Will try that first.
** One sec- WHATS WITH BMS, it is so difficult to speak with them over the phone and when they get irritated they hang up on me. They do not respond to emails and overall the customer service in my opinion has fallen on the way side. Made a huge order yesterday online so hopefully they do not screw me over. Rant over**
Secondly once I got the buggy into the shop I noticed the drivers side of the rear diff had an ugly weld-support job done on it. The drivers side, FWD and rear flange(s) (mounting tabs) had broken off at some point and a piece of 1/4" square stock welded in place and the diff bolted to it from the top (see pics) and the bottom rear side.
The passenger side has another ugly hack job done to it. But on the passenger side, they welder a half inch piece of 'spacer' and ran only one bolt through the bottom flanges.
Passenger side mounting flanges (tabs etc) are though intact minus the rear passenger side flanges has this metal spacer between the flange and the rear diff body.
The alignment from the diff, FWD from the u-joints to the engine is canted/cocked and I am sure this is putting undue stress on the components.
Third issue is the drivers rear CV joint. When looking it over I noticed it looked 'different' in comparison to the passenger side CV joint. The 'boot'-end that connects to the diff (terminology escapes me) is different and the drivers side CV joint looks to have been cut and re-welded. It doesn't look stock and no idea why this was done. I spoke to the previous owner and he states this is 'stock' I don't believe so. (see pics)
SO- I went ahead and ordered from BMS's website:
x1 rear diff
x2 rear shocks
x1 drivers side cv joint
x1 shifter assy
I have had 'small' buggies in the past: ASW carbide 150's, Yerf dogs and hammer head buggies but this is my first 'large-engined' buggy utilizing a rear diff, CV joints etc.
I have never removed a diff or CV joints. My understanding on the CV joints is that they should pull straight out. IF that correct? Remove the tire(s) and pull the CV joint straight backwards or is there another way to do it? Secondly, when I remove the old diff; do the u-joints need to be disconnected or do they to just slip out from the engine side )still connected to the diff) or do they to need to be disconnected? (take off the snap rings)
During installation of the new diff I believe I am going to have issues a the drivers side has the hack job welding mount fabrication. I'll have to figure out how to cut the rear most drivers side 'hack job' off- the mounting tab there looks to be intact albeit slightly bent outwards. The original FWD drivers side mounting tab is missing and the hack job fabrication welded in its place. That one might prove ... 'interesting'
I doubt the new diff is going to come with the proper mounting hardware (bolts) as I did not see them pictured on the BMS website nor did I see the hardware specifically for the diff for sale or mentioned.
Question for this is: is there supposed to be spacers between the inside of the mounting flange and the bolt- I.E a type of alignment spacer between the body of the diff and the mounting flanges?
WHEW- thanks for keeping with me gents (and gals) - I sincerely appreciate any feedback or advice you can provide.
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