A quick index on my mods thread:

Page 1 - RevMax CDI, ITP Holeshot XCR and XCT tires, ITP Brushed Steel rims, Iridium CR7HIX plug, TrailTech spedo, EastSide Performance cam, EastSide performance exhust pipe, EastSide UNI air mod, Rejetting the stock carb, Herculiner.

Page 2 - Herculiner continued...

Page 3 - Blade tach, extended instrumentation panel, side mirrors, the 3rd seat mod , YTX12-BS 180cca battery, RCI 5-Way Harnesses, 1,500 RPM clutch spring, 10g rollers, Koso clutch and variator, Comet 203581A belt, Prestone belt dressing.

Page 4 - Mikuni VM28, 1/4" Arnold fuel line, new throttle cable, and Pilot steering wheel.

Page 5 - Anti vib support and chrome trim for extended instrumentation panel, fuse holder in electrical box, compass,
Install Tip: 'Sanding a used bell, before installing a new clutch'.

Page 6 - The four valved head, Iridium CR8EIX plug, ETX20L 270cca batery, Safe-Mate SST308 battery quick disconnect, Buggy top, Mikuni VM26, honed carb intake and spacers, Shortened fuel line.

Page 7 - CVT air filter mod, CVT bolt mod, Dr.Pulley 11.5g slider's, Red MRP clutch.

Page 8 - Changing the buggy stock fluids, New shifter knob.

Page 9 - Works performance gas/oil emulsion shocks that were designed for our 150cc two seater buggies!

Page 10 - Car Quest battery volt meter part # 81397.
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The first mod I completed, was the RevMax CDI. Not for any good reason other than it was the first performance part I received, when I decided to take the upgrade plunge. The RevMax CDI might help your low end torque out a bit. It will allow your engine to rev to a higher rpm, before the CDI's limiter would engage. My understanding is that performance CDI's raise your engines rev limiter, controls the timeing of the spark, and can change it's duration. I also believe they can even alter the spark's heat to a certain extent? The debate is still kind of active of if and how much aftermarket CDI's help performance at all... Knowing this I still wanted to roll the dice and grab the RevMax CDI anyway. It depends on how much blow money you have burning a hole in your pocket for aftermarket buggy parts. The $79 price didn't scare me away, and thought it might become more important as additional mods were completed.

As far as which aftermarket performance CDI is 'best'...
To me it's all smoke and mirrors until the manufacturers start listing exactly what paramaters they have changed in their version, and what exactly they are set to. Then we could actually start to have a meaningful debate.

If nothing else, at least you have your origional CDI as a backup part.

If you havent seen a picture of a CDI, this is what we are talking about. It is located in the buggy's electrical box. Just unplug the old, and replace it with the new one. A quick and easy swap for sure!

The second Mod was the tires. I wanted to go a bit bigger on the front to help absorbe the bumps better, and prevent the buggies nose from being able to make contact with the ground. I also wanted an honest 22" tire on the rear. The stock tires are listed as 22", but it is common knowledge that they all were actually around 21" or less. I was afraid to go too big on the rear due to it altering my final gear ratio. Nothing is free in BuggyWorld, and I'm a low end torque fan myself. The extra speed that bigger tires bring will be taken from your low end power. Mabey not much, but some none the less. Bigger tires take more energy to turn. Another factor is total width of the buggy for trail riding. The bigger the front tires + rim offset, the wider the buggy. It all depends on where you ride. TalonMan's Trails are mostly made for quads, and already feel skinny when you fit a two seater buggy like my Talon down the path. The Talon measures 52 1/2" wide stock at the front tires. The boys running the Big Foot tires (nice as they look) are 60" wide, or that's what Jabo said his Sahara was after the Big Foot install. There is allot of personal preference involved in tire selection.

******************* Quick guide for upgrading tires and rims *******************

Any 2004 150cc Carter Brothers Talon, or 2004 Twister Hammerhead can be done this way.

First you have to determine your bolt pattern. We already have established your Front is a 4/110mm Bolt Pattern, and your Rear is 4/137mm Bolt Pattern. (The 4 represents the 4 bolt holes) This information is required for selecting your rims.

Selecting your RIMS should be done in this way: You need a style you like and that come in:
For your FRONT: 10X5 with a 4/110 bolt pattern and probably a 2+3 offset.
For your REAR: 10x8 with a 4/137 bolt pattern and probably a 3+5 offset.

I know for a fact that ITP make a matching set in the brushed steel rim's.

Selecting your TIRES should be done in this way: You need a style you like and that come in:
For your FRONT: Your tire should be a 21x7x10 (like the holeshot 6-ply XCR).
For your REAR: Your tire should be a 23x10x10 or mabey a 22x11x10 (like the holeshot 6-ply XCT).

A good rule to remember: On off road vehicles your tire should be wider than the rim it's mounted on. This helps to protect it's rim, and to maintain a good seal.

Buggy-On and enjoy your new tires!!
____________________________________________________________________________

I ended up going with ITP Holeshots XCR's and XCT's. Both of which were 6-ply tires for max durability and puncture resistance. They aren't the absolute lightest tires you can find due to being 6-ply and wider than stock, but lighter than most other brands of the same build quality. I mounted them on ITP Brushed Steel rims for a good match. I think the steel might give me the max protection against rim bending too?

FRONT:
RIM'S - TR ACC STL WHL 10X5 2+3 4/110 part #370845.
TIRES - TR ACC HOLESHOT XCR 21X7X10 part #370988.
Holeshot XCR's - "Ideal for today’s 4-stroke sport machines! (6-ply) Tough yet light in weight. 2 pounds lighter than Holeshot XC model, 2 pounds lighter than the Razr. Lower in profile, narrower and lighter than our XC/XCT models. Special angled shoulder knob design provides increased side bite for faster, more controllable cornering. Bright hot patch logo on sidewall. The best handling GNCC/trail tire on the market today, thanks to its low profile and light weight."

REAR:
RIM'S - TR TIR STL WHL 10X8 3+5 4/137 part #370844.
TIRES - TR ACC HOLESHOT XCT 22x11x10 part #370975.
Holeshot XCT's - (6-ply) "Our tallest high-performance trail riding and racing knobby. Aggressive tread pattern for even more impressive cornering ability. Perfect for rough, rocky desert terrain. Extremely puncture resistant thanks to extra heavy-duty sidewall construction. The Baja dominator! 2003 Baja 1000 Champion with Team Honda, and now the 2004 Baja 1000 winner with Team Alba Bombardier". The special rim guard protects wheel and helps prevent air loss designed to be the most puncture-resistant tires available. HoleShot XCT tires use the same heavy duty sidewall design as Carlisle's six time GNCC Chanpionship winning XC tires, and add A more aggressive tread pattern. The taller size of XCT tires makes them the perfect Sport/Trail ATV combo.

Note: For more 4/110mm, and 4/137mm rim options, check this thread: http://www.buggynews.com/topic9601.html

***************** Things you should know (my my opinion only!!) *****************
I don't think you can go any bigger than 21" on the front withought rubbing. I did go to a 21" tire, on a 2+3 offset rim (makes you a bit wider wich nobody likes for trails) and can turn hard both ways with 1" clearence between tire and buggy frame. It has never hit, but if you go any bigger with these rims, you possibly might start rubbing the tire against the buggies frame on tight turns. This may or may not bother you, just thought you should know.

Your front mud guards may look too small and or rub? I had the small 2004 front mud guards on my Talon, and after the front tire upgrade, it just made them look off center, and too squirley for me so they had to come off.

The tire mod was a great thing for me. The bigger front tires drink up bumps much better, and I never bottom out any more. There were a few places on the trail I ride where there is a sharp dip in the trail, followed by a sharp rise. If you were to come at it too hot with the smaller stock tires on, the nose would shovel dirt into the buggy. I was lucky that the nose never bit in the ground hard, bringing the buggy to an abrupt stop. After my tire upgrade the buggy's nose never rubs dirt. Not even on the the problem dip spot. It just rides and feels much better than before. I personally believe that larger front tires not only ride way better, but also moves the saftey factor of these buggies way up too. Helping to keep the nose of the buggy from digging into the ground after a small jump, or a large bump, is a big thing. By having the buggies nose raised a bit further into the air, keeps you out of trouble more than you might think.

As far as traction goes, they are killer. The rears 1" extra width and square profile keep allot of rubber in contact with the ground. The aggressive tread pattern bites really well! It's also nice to know that you are running around on 6ply tires too. I like to inflate all four of my tires to 7psi. I think it helps the tires sidewalls to not get too mushy and break their seal.

If you can deal with the price, I think there are none finer.
Still my #1 favorite tires for my Talon today.

NOTE: If your in deep mud all the time there probably is a better tire choice. I am 99% on dry trails when I ride. As trail riders, they excell.

**A few stats:
Stock front tires were listed as: 20X7X8 (but smaller really) went to a 21X7X10.
Stock rear tires were listed as: 22X10X10 (but smaller really) went to a 22X11X10.

Center front buggy nose height of skid plate was 12 1/4", is now 13 7/8".

Front width was 52 1/2", is now 54 1/2".
I think you have to give up the 2" extra width if you want to run 21's, and don't want to rub your tires on the frame of tight turns.

Frame height directly below saftey belt nut on the outside center of frame: Was 10 1/2", is now 11 1/2".

The ground clearence was 6 1/4" at the bottom of the protection bar under the chain (lowest spot on the buggy), is now a full 7".

Spark Me Baby!! (Iridium NGK CR7HIX) These plugs work fine in a standard GY6 engine.

Much better plug than our stockers too!

Got me a few of these from: http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=cr7hix
I received fast service.

Some of Daniel's wisdom 'firemedicntx' on BuggyNews: "The smaller the surface area of metal the electricity has to pass through, the hotter the spark, and the better the burn. It takes more electricity to fire the stock spark plug that came in your buggy. The Iridium has a .6mm electrode and is a very good plug. A platinum plug is 1.1mm, and a regular ol nickel is huge at 2.5mm."

For a better explanation about the better spark/more power made by the Iridium plugs, read this: http://www.ngk.com/faqmain.asp

Note: These plugs come pre-gapped for you, just twist them in as is.

I thought the TrailTech spedo looked like a good unit. I baught it directly from their home page. http://www.trailtech.net/

It cost $79.00 + shipping. It was just what I was looking for. It was priced under $100 bucks, and I feel like it is a quality unit.

When I phoned TrailTech, I had a long discussion on how the TrailTech sensor configurations were all custom made for each ATV. The sales person and I decided that the sensor configuration that should give me the widest instlation options for making it work in a buggy application was the: # 2010-20. It is actually made for the Raptor ATV.

Install Tips:
After I received my spedo, I wanted to dremel a small notch for the handelbar mounting bracket, to the cross bar that suports the back of the plastic dash. When the spedo is in it's stand, it naturally projects to the left of the bracket. I want to make the display 1) as close as possible to the riders face. 2) Be as much in the center as possible like the Buxter location. 3) Not to obstruct the view of the trail. The answer is for me to dremel a small notch in the rear of the dash, just to the left of the center support bar. There is nothing under the dash right there, and it will be close enouigh to scare the passenger, and the driver equally as well.

The spedo cable will not reach the rear of the buggy so it has to be mounted to a front wheel. You will also need to order from TrailTech their M6 magnetic bolt to make this work on your front tire. The spedo kit comes stock with a M8 bolt which is too big for our buggies. You will replace your stock M6 break calaper bolt, with the special ordered M6 TrailTech magnet bolt, for the sensor to be able to count your tires revolutions.

You must program the TrailTech's computer for the size of the tire you mounted the sensor to. It turnes out that my new front 21" tires cover 65" exactly in 1 revolution. You take the 65" x 25.4 = 1651mm. That is the number I programed into my spedo. It is worth checking your tires actual distance travelled, in 1 revolution. You will get the most accurate speed reading that way.

The more I use this thing, the more I love it. When you take off, if you hold the center and left button for 3 sec, so it clears your high speed record, your trip time, and trip average speed, and trip distance. It keeps your life to date miles in another section of memory to still give accurate reminder indicators as to when it is time to change oil, or engine maintenance. Both values are programmable to your likeing. For checking your buggies high speed, just fly down the road and not even bother to look at your speed until you stop. The old trusty TrailTech will record the maximum speed you were able to hit for you! The Trailtech Endurance computer does auto-shutoff after 30 minutes. It comes back on automatically when either the vehicle moves or you touch a button. It also has a backlight feature. Light will stay on for five seconds, then turn off automatically to conserve battery power.

Some handy TrailTech info links about the unit:

http://www.trailtech.net/english.htm (Endurance Computer Instructions: English vesion)

FAQ - About the TrailTech spedo.
http://www.trailtech.net/faqs_atvs.htm# ... ce%20model

I installed the EastSide performance cam upgrade, along with the stopper plate. My buggy did not have a stopper plate of any kind installed in it's stock form. I included a picture of the EastSide stopper plate correctly installed for reference. The performance cam was a nice upgrade over the stock 2004 cam. It lifted the valves higher, and heald them open longer to get more breathing accomplished on every rev.

Warning: If you ever remove the cam, and have to re-torque these 4 bolts, do not exceed 16 lbs. I did and the bolt will stretch. When I realized what had happened it made me sick!
Thank's to farther ahed in my mods thread, I went to the 4-valve head which includes 4 very nice upgraded studs. My stretched one was replaced.

FYI - The 2005 Talon's and Twisters now come stock with A hotter cam already installed at the T.J. Powersports factory in China. They make a good buggy!
My 2004 DLX Talon's stock cam had "SX 04 05" marked on it. It was just a standard GY6 cam.
An example of one of the hotter cams number in a 2005 Talon GX "SX 05 02".
An example of one of the hotter cams number in a KPX Xterro "SX 04 10".

My pipe and UNI Air mod was next.

The web pages I have found talk about how a true performance pipe for 4 stroke engines need to be long. Especially for getting maximum low end torque out of your engine. The other is the size of the diamiater. This pipe excels at both, and has a sound that demands respect.

Here are some Blade or EastSide Performance pipe upgrade pict's, and some great pipe stats given by RAPTORAZ. My stock pipe stats might have actually been smaller than Raptor's?

Stock pipe info:
inlet I.D. = .707"
header O.D. 1st step = .873"
2nd step = 1.125"
muffler outlet I.D. = .820"

Eastside Motorsports pipe:
inlet I.D. = .908"
header O.D. 1st step = 1.01"
2nd step = 1.258"
3rd step = 1.502"
muffler outlet I.D. = 1.870"

RAPTORAZ - 'The larger diameters and additional step up, coupled with a longer length, equate to a much better designed pipe'.

Talonman,

Thanks, those are great pictures and will definitely help us new guys that are still working on our buggys.

Blade owner here,

Terry

Glad to hear you like the picts docin. They help me too when I want to remember how something was before I messed with it, or have to put it back togeather correctly. Fun to look at too.

I baught my UNI performance intake from East Side, in the same order as my new exhaust pipe.

This will help your engine breathe at a much faster rate, and with much better filtered air. The stock air box with it's paper filter does a poor job of this. It should be on your list of things to replace as soon as possible. The dust that can slip buy your stock air box, could cause you the need for a ring job down the line. The oil filtered UNI air will have none of that.

The performance intake does have a well made mount, that is made to connect to your buggies frame. It is secure and actually pintches your carb between the engines intake, and the hose from the UNI. This helps to make sure your carb dosen't wander around on you, or even fall off....

The UNI performance intake's mount, is a nice feature, and should be mentioned.

Good upgrade Indi!!

For a low cost option on the intake check this link:
http://www.buggynews.com/topic465.html

Jet Test:

After all my engine upgrades were added, (CDI, Performance cam, UNI Air, Iridium NGK CR7HIX plug, and Performance Pipe) I decided to do some fine tuning on my jet size.

I picked a long section of trail where I could hammer it for 10 seconds befor needing to hit the breaks. I places A red flag at each end and baught a stopwatch.

135 data:
1) 10.46
2) 10.38
3) 10.31
4) 10.32
5) 10.32
6) 10.25
Max Speed able to record 29.2 MPH
I threw the fastest and lowest time out trying to compensate for human error. Ave speed with a 135 jet=10.3325 sec

132.5 data:
1) 10.35
2) 10.28
3) 10.25
4) 10.28
5) 10.28
6) 10.29
Max speed able to record 29.00 MPH
I threw the fastest and lowest time out trying to compensate for human error. Ave speed with a 132 jet=10.28 sec

So far, for my buggy in the summer.... 132.5 jet has the edge.

I am liking the time I am putting into jet swapping. It is starting to pay off.....

Exciting new data for me:

130 data:
1) 10.25
2) 10.22
3) 10.16
4) 10.22
5) 10.25
6) 10.19

Max Speed able to record 29.7 MPH !! (This is the fastest I have ever been able to record in my Talon.. personal high speed record hit.)

I threw the fastest and lowest time out trying to compensate for human error. Ave speed with a 130 jet=10.22 sec -vs- Ave 10.33 with my 135 jet.

He is running so good now! I have never heard or felt the power ever this good in my buggy. He is at a personal best. This by far is the best performance wise he has ever been at.

I do have a 127.5 Jet, But I feel like he is in the zone right now. I still havent decided for sure, but I think I am gunna stop with the 130 jet.

It was in the upper 80's and muggy today. Cooler, drier air favors bigger jet sizes so I dont want to get too crazy small. What a great day to set a speed record!! at 3:45 pm and still hot as hell out.

I think now that I have him jetted in, I probably should put my second Iridium CR7HIX plug in. I did get 3 and the first is a bit on the black side?

Update:

Well, I began to feel like my jet test had to go one more round to go. You see, I still have Heath's words ratteling around in my mind: "I can tell you this. BEFORE The RevMax CDI, I found the 135 was the best for flat land, but crappy for steep hills. The 125 was the best for steep hills. I went with a 127.5 to get the best of both worlds. AFTER the performance CDI upgrade and regap, the best bang for the buck for me is still 127.5"

I couldn't take it any more.... I had to try it out, after all ... we do have most of the same mods. The 127.5 went in.

I did have a slight hesitation on take off with the 130 jet in, and I do mean slight.... Now after putting the 127.5 jet in, it's gone. I still get a top speed of 29.X, depending on the day, so the 127.5 wins for now, and believe it to be the best jet size when using my performance pipe, along with the UNI air mod installed.

When things get cooler.... it may be re-jet season again.

The next mod I did was put a layer of Herculiner (truck bed liner) in my buggy.

This part got me hooked:

Herculiner is a tough, one-part polyurethane with self-contained, rubber granules which give it an attractive, tough-textured appearance. During the curing process, Herculiner is exposed to atmospheric moisture which chemically changes it from a liquid to a tough, polyurethane membrane. Herculiner protects surfaces from foul weather elements and harsh chemicals, while creating a slip resistant surface.

ADVANTAGES:
One-part No mixing of components
Totally flexible Never chips or flakes
Repairable Bonds to itself
Protection Waterproof, resistant to acid, chemicals, UV exposure, saltwater
Fast Drying Very short intercoat time; foot traffic in 6-12 hours
Economical Lasts for years; no need to remove.

I like it.

That looks great!!

-Steve

Thanks Steve,
If you get the $104 dollar kit It has enouigh liner to do two buggies for sure. I know you are currently thinking of doing this on both of your buggies. I did the recomended two coats of liner, and didn't even use half of the gallon can of liner mix that the kit included.

I would also recomend to use the paint brush to put the liner in, I think it gives you better control.

As the instructions suguested I put tape on the bottom of the buggy under every hole in the floor. I used a small round file to re-clear my holes out to force the rubber gromet's of the foot pads back in place. I did pop all 4 out when I lined the buggy to cover the entire bottom.

Thanks for the tips!!

-Steve

I wanted to make a bumber where the weeds kept dinging my paint, and to coat the passenger's foot support bar too. The idea of having a black Brush Guard has been bouncing around in my head, and I figure this is way better than paint. I guess I just had a hard time putting the stuff down!

With A bit of input by some buggy brothers, I decided to put a few coats of bed liner on the bottom of my buggy too.
I'm not sure how long it will last underneath with all the rocks and sticks that jump out on the trail, but every bit helps right?

I take back my statement that indicated one $109 kit would do two buggies. If you put it on like I did, one kit per buggy only!

When I put the liner on I did find a few small spots of rust starting. It made me feel better putting the liner on the spot where the flake was, after giving it a good sanding and an Acetone scrub. I cross the creek on every ride so the added protection is worth it for me. The total added weight is whatever about 3/4 of a gallon weigh. It might even get a bit lighter as it dries? I wonder if it could have even made my brush guard a tad stronger?

Here is a shot of the bottom. Not too good of a job I know, but I got most of it!

Dude, that looks pretty sweet!! That's one thing I like about your posts, lot's of info so if others want to give it a go they can. I just had a thought, fly me and my Talon over and I'll be your engine guy and you be the detailer guy.

I'm not sure if that coating you have put on is available here in Australia, but its definately something I'm going to find out about.

Aaron

Thanks Aaron.

You have a Talon too? - My brother!!

I would be honored to have you for my engine specialist any day!

It definately gets lighter as it dries. All the volatile liquids evaporate leaving just the resin on the buggy. Probably lost at least half the weight of that container of goop.

I dunno about the bars, but I'm up for the floor pan top and bottom. I've had some nasty scrapes on the rough terrain I have near me and would like to try to avoid at least a few of those in the future. It's a pain to have to keep touching up a buggy so it doesn't rust apart on you.

I realize this won't save all scrapes from happening, but it will go a long way for the minor ones, and that worn area where my foot sits near the gas pedal.


-Steve

I have to admit at first I didn't know if I wanted to do the Brush Guard too or not. When I decided to go ahead and do it, I knew there was no turning back due to the red bars turning to a dull pink as you sand. This is due to the undercoating of white paint beginning to show through the red top coat. When my Brush Guard was all pink, I had to keep telling myself it would be alright because it would soon be black.

I was in shock a bit at first, due to it looking so different to me, but I know I like it now for sure. The black Brush Guard makes it feel more like the roll bars in the Jeep I used to have, and the rubbery, 'tough-textured appearance' is just right for a Bad Boy buggy like mine.

I don't mind the fact it's protected now eather. We did have a user here report that after removing his nerf bars from the buggy, there was rust due to the pad holding water against the pipe. I won't have to worry about that no matter what nerf set I end up with.

The bumper is great too. I can tell it's up for a good thrashing, more so than my paint ever was for sure!

The bottom line is for me it just looks and feels better. I am glad my Talon got the Herc treatment.

Me with my best searous game face on. Do you think it sends the message 'Oh yeha, I can run with ya!'? (At least in the 150cc Class!)

Go big or go home! WOOF!