sand viper 800cc

Posts: 4 · Joined: 10 Jul 2007 Posts: 4 Pictures: 0

Ok, my carb.800cc sand viper is acting up it starts up fine and when you start it up when it cold it seems to run smooth. As the temp. comes up it starts to miss(temp is between 170 and 190 deg.) . It seems to miss at an idle and when you get it above 2300 rpm it stops. I drove it around in 1st & 2nd gear and as soon as you come to a stop and push the clutch in it stalls, it starts back up but it won't idle. Has anyone had this problem?

Posts: 415

Check to see if your choke plate is sticking closed or just remove it.

If not that...check your plugs to see if it's rich or lean. May tell you if you got a vacuum leak or float problems. Sounds like the choke is stuck closed, though.

later...mick

Posts: 341

Good points Mick,
I think I have run into this problem several times.
Without knowing the year of the machine it may or may not have this fitting.
Look under the vacume advance at the #3 intake runner for a rubber plug, they usually rot off within a couple of years and cause a severe vacume leak in # 3 cylinder. The car this engine came out of ( ALTO )used this port for the vacume brake booster, it is a large leak if it is this port about 1/2", ops I ment 13mm Wink

Good luck,

W.C.

Posts: 4 · Joined: 10 Jul 2007 Posts: 4 Pictures: 0

okay here's some more info- It's a 2006 800cc sand viper (carb model). The buggy sat for seven months I have drained the fuel, changed fuel filter changed the fuel lines. I changed the spark plugs, the old spark plugs looked good but I changed them anyways (spark plugs were like a chocolate milk brown) I removed the carb three times and cleaned it. I adjusted the float level to see if that would help - no luck. I removed the solinoid and it actuated with the ignition switch like normal. I wasted a can of starter fluid trying to find a vacuum leak, no luck there. It seems to be running lean. It starts up and if you keep the rpm above 2500 it stays running but it wont Idle, it will only idle if I choke it. I tried setting the air mixture screw at 2 and 3/8 open and no change. turning the screw doesn't seem to affect the engine

Posts: 301

My first impression to me sounds like a vacuum leak as per Mick and WC. Is there any smoke comming out of the exhaust? And have you touched or worked on the distributor at all?

Posts: 4 · Joined: 10 Jul 2007 Posts: 4 Pictures: 0

No there is no smoke. All I did to the distributor was removed the cap and rotor and cleaned the contact point and visually checked for arc lines on the cap. every thing looked good.

Posts: 9 · Joined: 27 Aug 2007 Posts: 9 Pictures: 0

I had the exact same problem as you. I replaced the carb with a new one from Joyner, no luck. I got a different brand and my problem is gone. That stock carb is just no good as causes you all these problems.

Posts: 341

The stock carb is a great piece, bytheway5 had the only bad factory carb I have ever heard of.
They do need some mods to make them preform better .
But it is always a possability.

W.C.

Posts: 59

WC is absolutely right, there is a hole lot of power hiding in these carbs, just take a little imagination. Sounds to me like there is something in the idle jet. Before you start to rebuild the carb, try holding the throttle wide open and at the same time choking it out with your hand, take your hand off just before it stalls but keep it wide open. Try that a few time, just be careful not to blow it up

Posts: 301

I agree with you on the power if it's the carb. that contributes, thats awesome. I had a simular problem at higher rpm that the gas in the float bowl wasn't keeping up with the engine and found out there is a very tiny screen where the fuel line mounts to the carb. It has a 10mm copper nip. Inside there is a small screen or filter and wound up being some small partical was lodged in it. The idle, like STR says, you need to clear something out. Maybe remove the idle screw all the way during run or over tighten it to push any debry through.