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| < Engine Clinic - Mini Off Road Buggy ~ Kinroad 150cc low/Mid throttle Popping/missing losses power |
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I read Cptmikers thread and my Problem is similar.
It was running great at higher speed the other day and all of a sudden when I was riding the engine started to make sparatic sputter and losing power.
I kept riding finally the sputtering got a little more frequent and it lost a little more power so I stopped riding not to make it worse.
Now It starts and idles great but once i start driving, it accelerates a little and then starts sputtering and making an almost backfiring sound and looses power and wants to die(and will) unless I let off the gas and then it goes back to Idleing fine.
If I sit there for a moment while Idling it seems to build up and then I can accelerate a little and it wants to go but then sputters/pops and wants to die.
While its idleing great i can press the gas and get the rpms up pretty high with the brake on and it will not sputter/pop/backfire but as soon as I let off the brake and try to accelerate it will go a little and sputter/pop/almost backfire and wants to die.
Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated
Thank You in advance
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Usually this is caused by a leak in the elbow between the carburetor and engine. While it is running, spray some carburetor cleaner around all the mating surfaces of the elbow. If the idle changes, you have a leak or crack.
If there is no problem with the intake, remove and clean the carburetor thoroughly and make sure your filter is passing fuel freely. _________________ 08 Joyner SViper 250
07 Joyner SSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
06 Weekend Warrior WB FB2200
05 Ford F-250 PowerStroke
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206
04 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000
03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI
02 Paros 3500# 5x8
81 Honda Passport C70B
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I read in another post to check coil wires to see if they were loose and (well I am not sure which ones those are?)
I opened the electrical box to see if any wires were loose and I played with a couple of wires and tried to make sure they were tight.
After I did that and put the box back on it would not start at all to check for a manifold leak. so I took the box back off to play with the wires again and once I did that again it started right up.
Now I had it idling I sprayed starting fluid around the manifold and it did not change the idle speed at all. so I am assuming that there is not an air leak.
I already took the carb completely apart and cleaned every hole it has.
I took it for a spin and it (for now ) is driving fine with out any bogging or sputtering.
I am not sure what wires i played with, or where the coil wires are, or where they connect in the box.
It would be great if someone knew of any pictures or diagram of the electrical system so I knew what I did, and if the wires I played with are in deed the coil wires ?
the 3 wires inside the box I played with were independant (not in a connecter clip) they were single wires connected to single wires surrounded by plastic sheath.
One wire was blue and I am not sure of the second color.
The third single wire was red and went through the back of the electrical box mounting plate into a rectangle piece mounted to the under side of the mounting plate.
If anyone knows what these wires connect to that would be great?
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Sponsor
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Follow the wire from your spark plug to a round cylinder - 3his is your coil. There are two lugs off back: One goes to ground and the other to the CDI.
The CDI is rectangulare with a 2-pin and 4-pin connector.
The rectifier has a single 4-pin plug.
The Solenoid has a heavy wire from the battery to the stater and a thin wire to the switch. _________________ 08 Joyner SViper 250
07 Joyner SSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
06 Weekend Warrior WB FB2200
05 Ford F-250 PowerStroke
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206
04 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000
03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI
02 Paros 3500# 5x8
81 Honda Passport C70B
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Do you think that a loose wire would cause my (bogging/stutter/popping/loose power but idle and start fine)problem?
Thanks for your info.
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The ignition system on these buggies is simple, but a loose wire can cause problems. There are two single wires with bullet connectors coming from the stator that is located behind the cooling fan and flywheel. One is power to the CDI the other is the magnet pickup off the flywheel (timing pulse for spark). The CDI then sends the timing pulse with the correct advance based on RPMs to the coil. If any of these was loose or corroded, it would cause these types of problems. _________________ 08 Joyner SViper 250
07 Joyner SSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
06 Weekend Warrior WB FB2200
05 Ford F-250 PowerStroke
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206
04 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000
03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI
02 Paros 3500# 5x8
81 Honda Passport C70B
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Sponsor
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I had the exact same problem, so i re crimped the coil wires with new clips and it now runs fine, good luck.
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If you follow the plug wire from the plug back to where it originates....this is the coil. On the back side of the coil there are two wires under a rubber boot protector. Re-crimp the connectors as they will work loose with the vibrations of the machine. This is the likely source of your sputtering and intermittent loss of power.
Glade _________________ http://edgepwr.com/
Authorized Dealer
Joyner USA
Kinroad
MRP-Martin Racing Performance
MTA-Motorcycle/Tire and Accessories
Trail Tech
Fun begins at the EDGE
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I agree with the above thats what i done, i had the exact same symptoms now its fine.
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Sponsor
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Thank you pghruby ,
I followed the wire coming from up out of the engine behind the flywheel and traced it to a 4-pin connector with 3 wires in it.
I lightly pulled on each one of the wires going into the connector and sure enough one pulled right out.
So I pushed the wire firmly in the top of the connector and it has run fine ever since.
thank you everyone for your Input , It all helps
BuggyNews Rocks
Sorry it has taken we so long for a reply I have just been very busy.
Noel
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