How in the heck do you remove the axels from the crank. I am under the impression that all you need do is pry it out. I have put at least 250 lbs of pressure on it with no success. Is there some tip. Maybe a gear it needs to be in or something??? I have been working on it for like 4 hours.
Sometimes it helps to have two people prying one from the top the other from the bottom. I found that when I tried to pry it out myself the pressure on only one side of the cv would make it tilt and bind on the splines, not come off straight. If you apply pressure from top and bottom, then you can alternate pressure and gradually work it off the output shaft. theres also a small ring clip on the end of the trans output shaft that snaps into the cv and keeps it on, thats probably helping keep it on so tight (doing its job).
If that doesnt work, I know someone on here had to drill holes in the side of the cv, thread bolts in and use a gear puller... hopefully you dont have to do that, cause that wrecks your cv.
Hope this made sense and helps you out _________________ 2006 Roketa 800cc - K&N + precharger, rejetted, manual carb secondary, Desertkart spark arrest muffler, limiting straps, & lots of repairs...
Why are you removing the CV joint? Is it damaged or do you just need to replace the boot? If you are just replacing the boot, you don't need to pull the entire CV joint off. _________________ Titan II, FMF pipe, 15gr sliders, 140 jet, 35 tooth sprockets, sand tires
Joyner 1100, Unleashed Motorsports turbo kit, header, custom paint, sand tires
I am removing the axels because I have to replace the clutch. I have tried everything to get those freakin things off no luck. I think I will try to get to the clutch without removing the cv's.
1. Remove the bolts from the hub assembly. The axle will then have about 2 inches of movement in the inboard CV joint. Push the axle completely into the CV and then pull in quickly out. This makes the axle assembly a slide hammer (Also known as the "Jojano" proceedure) and the CV joint should pop out after a few bops. I don't really like this method because it puts a large stress on three different retaining rings and you're hoping the right one lets loose first - but it's better than breaking your differential case by prying on it too hard. Remember to drain about 1/2 quart of trans lube before you start.
2. Remove the large retaining band from the inboard CV joint boot. Pull the boot off of the CV, remove the large retaining ring from the inside of the CV, and pull the axle with the star and roller assemble straight out. A little greasy, but much easier. It also gives you the opportunity to inspect the CV joint for wear and you do not have to drain lube before you start.
2. Remove the large retaining band from the inboard CV joint boot. Pull the boot off of the CV, remove the large retaining ring from the inside of the CV, and pull the axle with the star and roller assemble straight out. A little greasy, but much easier. It also gives you the opportunity to inspect the CV joint for wear and you do not have to drain lube before you start.
Good luck
Hey thats a great idea! I never thought of that way around it.....
Torched - I suggest you do this method, definitely the safest no risk of cracking the case or breaking a retaining ring. _________________ 2006 Roketa 800cc - K&N + precharger, rejetted, manual carb secondary, Desertkart spark arrest muffler, limiting straps, & lots of repairs...
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