The clutch and possibly the throw out bearings. Just pull the wheel from the clutch side of the buggy and slide out the axle, unbolt the tranny from the engine, pull the old clutch, install the new one and put it back together. I also pulled the fuel tank and rack from the back , but it was just to be able to see, it wasnt really nessessary. Good luck. _________________ 2005 Joyner 650 Turbo
2006 LJ Tech 1000
2006 sunl 1000
2005 Corvair powered 4 seater
2-1985 250sx trikes
200x trike
200s trike
1915 VW high jumper
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I have had mine off 3or 4 times but it was because of a defective flywheel, so i havnt actually had to replace the clutch. Judgeing from looking at it though I would guess that it would just be the friction plate unless you have run the clutch down to the rivets and damaged the pressure plate. Van _________________ 2005 Joyner 650 Turbo
2006 LJ Tech 1000
2006 sunl 1000
2005 Corvair powered 4 seater
2-1985 250sx trikes
200x trike
200s trike
1915 VW high jumper
Lots more small and large toys!
I have only put 100 miles on the Buggy on two rides. On the way back from the last ride it started not going into gear. With the stick it seems like it is going into gear, with or without the clutch lever pressed. No power at all is going to the wheels though. Sounds like the clutch right. I figured it would last longer that 100 miles though. I did however teach my 16 year old niece how to drive a manual with it and there was lots of clutch burning going on. I would think it would have to handle more than that though.
On auto clutch jobs, I've always replaced the throw out and idler bearings in addition to the clutch and pressure plates. The bearings should be common sense, but the pressure plate may need explanation: Since this plate has spring fingers and is subject to heat, the spring will weaken with use. You are already in there so the cost of the pressure plate isn't as bad as having to go back in due to premature failure. _________________ 08 Joyner SViper 250
07 Joyner SSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
06 Weekend Warrior WB FB2200
05 Ford F-250 PowerStroke
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206
04 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000
03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI
02 Paros 3500# 5x8
81 Honda Passport C70B
Before getting to deep into your R&R. See if the pressure in the hydrolic clutch has built up. Mine has to be relieved on every trip. The bleed valve is right on the trani. 10mm wrench just loosen the bleed valve and see if the clutch at the trani. moves towards the trani. _________________ 90cc Dinli Atv
250cc NST Atv
150cc Baja Dune "modified" (for sale)
800cc Hurricane II -"Intercooled Unleashed Turbo",26" Bighorns-26" Sand Blasters,Fox 2.0,K&N filter,,Bosch alt.,upgraded ign.,gauges,straps,8mm plug wires,4" lift,
I have only put 100 miles on the Buggy on two rides. On the way back from the last ride it started not going into gear. With the stick it seems like it is going into gear, with or without the clutch lever pressed. No power at all is going to the wheels though. Sounds like the clutch right. I figured it would last longer that 100 miles though. I did however teach my 16 year old niece how to drive a manual with it and there was lots of clutch burning going on. I would think it would have to handle more than that though.
wow i thought it would have took more then that to.i
have no experience with these buggys but i did notice it has a hydraulic clutch. have you check the slave cylinder on bell housing to make sure its working wright.maybe its not letting the pressure plate release so the clutch can get a hold again on flywheel.hope that come out wright
how does your clutch pedal fill spungie or tight?
most usually you have lower gears to move but no high ones clutch will slip and keep getting worse.
thats just some of my thoughts but maybe smoking it good several times and riding with foot on the clutch that beginners will do, took it out.
good luck on your fix and i sure wish i had a machine like that.
pud _________________ 2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now
Before getting to deep into your R&R. See if the pressure in the hydrolic clutch has built up. Mine has to be relieved on every trip. The bleed valve is right on the trani. 10mm wrench just loosen the bleed valve and see if the clutch at the trani. moves towards the trani.
sorry jojano didn't mean to do that i'm a slow typer
pud _________________ 2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now
On auto clutch jobs, I've always replaced the throw out and idler bearings in addition to the clutch and pressure plates. The bearings should be common sense, but the pressure plate may need explanation: Since this plate has spring fingers and is subject to heat, the spring will weaken with use. You are already in there so the cost of the pressure plate isn't as bad as having to go back in due to premature failure.
Ruby Usually I would agree with you , but these things are so easy to get to, compared to a car, and the parts are so expensive and hard to find that If the pressure plate and even the bearings seem good it might be worth taking a chance, espesially with only a hundred miles on it.
Torched another thing that will happen is the cluth can glaze over if someone is burning or slipping it alot. If that is the case just go in and hit the clutch plate with some sand paper to rough it up and it should start to grab better. I have to agree with the others though 100 miles isnt much it could be in your hydrolic system. Van _________________ 2005 Joyner 650 Turbo
2006 LJ Tech 1000
2006 sunl 1000
2005 Corvair powered 4 seater
2-1985 250sx trikes
200x trike
200s trike
1915 VW high jumper
Lots more small and large toys!
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didn't mean to do that i'm a slow typer
