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<  Off Road Go Kart & Mini Buggy Discussion  ~  What Should Clutch Pads Feel Like?
pud
Post Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:42 pm 
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Buggy Crazed


Joined: 16 Jul 2007
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Location: west virginia

supersoxy wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I took it off and scuffed up the bell a little bit with some emery cloth and then did the same with the clutch pads. I wasn't having any problems, just thought what the he77. We'll see if it changes the way it climbs. I want to get that Hit clutch, but didn't want to spend any money on it until my stock clutch was used up. Thanks again.


thats the way with me still not sure which way i want go with clutch.i got to be honest i am surprised that my stock clutch has lasted as long as it has.
i'm on my third belt now never have broken one (yet) knock on wood,just seem to ware them down and stretch them some.
every time i change out a belt i scuff up the clutch bell and de-glaze the clutch pads.i know its been working good for me and i can tell a difference on climbing hills seems to get a better bite,every little bit helps Smile
i hope you notice a difference to
pud

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2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now



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pud
Post Fri Jun 27, 2008 11:10 pm 
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Buggy Crazed


Joined: 16 Jul 2007
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Location: west virginia

well when i was talking before i didn't have any pictures to show.after i think about 3 months now of replacing the belt, cleaning clutch and bell up i started to notice alittle rubber band effect when climbing a long steep rough hill.thats the best way i can explain it.so i pulled it down to check things out before taking off on a long venture.
the gates power link belt is holding up good but as i thought it was the clutch slipping on a hard pull.
de-glazed clutch pads and scuffed the clutch bell up put it back together,then back to the hill root and bored my way up without a problem,no rubber band effect Smile
here are a few pictures of clutch and bell before and after cleaning.do any of you guys go through this with different clutchs and pads on the performance clutchs?
pud


190N08-6-27(15-35).jpg: 2 Time(s) Viewed, 22.55 KB
before

190N08-6-27(15-35).jpg

Klik here or on the thumb to look at it in real size


192N08-6-27(15-35).jpg: 3 Time(s) Viewed, 19.79 KB
before

192N08-6-27(15-35).jpg

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193N08-6-27(15-40).jpg: 3 Time(s) Viewed, 22.54 KB
after

193N08-6-27(15-40).jpg

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195N08-6-27(16-1).jpg: 3 Time(s) Viewed, 20.81 KB
after

195N08-6-27(16-1).jpg

Klik here or on the thumb to look at it in real size



_________________
2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now



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ajbkid
Post Fri Jun 27, 2008 11:57 pm 
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thanks so much pud.
i havent tried de-gazin yet cuz i put the cover back on and dont feel like opening it all up again so soon.
i Will give you an update on my results when i get around to messin with it.
Thanks again for all the feedback and tips.

_________________
2005 TALON GX150 IIR
*Bike speedometer
*9g rollers
*1500 main clutch spring
*1500 clutch springs
*Yamaha blaster shocks in rear
*stock talon REAR shocks in front
* UNI filter
*120 main jet



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Spool
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:09 am 
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Buggy Crazed


Joined: 23 Jul 2005
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Location: Derrick City, PA

I had to deglaze my pads and bell quite a few times when I had the MRP yellow clutch installed. Even after a year or so of use the pads on the MRP are not wore down much at all. It just used to glaze up and then start slipping so often that I got tired of dealing with it and went back to the stock clutch. The stock clutch glazes up occasionally but it takes much longer. It also seems to grip much better than the MRP did.

Jamie

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9 gram rollers, 2004 gear reduction, Uni Filter w/Redneck intake, Gutted Exhaust, Bando HP Coil, Sandman/Blister reverse bracket



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pghruby
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:23 am 
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Spool wrote:
I had to deglaze my pads and bell quite a few times when I had the MRP yellow clutch installed. Even after a year or so of use the pads on the MRP are not wore down much at all. It just used to glaze up and then start slipping so often that I got tired of dealing with it and went back to the stock clutch. The stock clutch glazes up occasionally but it takes much longer. It also seems to grip much better than the MRP did.

Jamie

Lighter clutch springs would drop engagement RPM, but might solve your glazing problem. Perhaps you are getting excessive glazing due to a high engagement RPM.

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08 Joyner SandViper 250
07 Joyner SandSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 4209 GX150 (SOLD)
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206 GX150
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Spool
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 2:25 am 
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Buggy Crazed


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I'd say that was probably a big part of the problem. The higher engagement springs do more harm than good in my riding situations. The biggest problem was on long steep hills when the engine would start bogging down. The higher engagement springs also let the clutch to start slipping at a higher RPM which as you say probably caused a lot of the glazing.

Jamie

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9 gram rollers, 2004 gear reduction, Uni Filter w/Redneck intake, Gutted Exhaust, Bando HP Coil, Sandman/Blister reverse bracket



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pud
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:15 pm 
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thanks for your thoughts on this guys,i think i will just stick with what i got.it does fit my riding style good and i don't want to get something in the future that i wouldn't be happy with.
pud

_________________
2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now



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ajbkid
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:56 pm 
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i just put all yellow springs (main, and clutch) in hopeing to solve my sliping problem. was it all a waste of money, or will i still be beter off with the new springs?
_________________
2005 TALON GX150 IIR
*Bike speedometer
*9g rollers
*1500 main clutch spring
*1500 clutch springs
*Yamaha blaster shocks in rear
*stock talon REAR shocks in front
* UNI filter
*120 main jet



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pud
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:15 pm 
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Buggy Crazed


Joined: 16 Jul 2007
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pud's gallery
Location: west virginia

ajbkid wrote:
i just put all yellow springs (main, and clutch) in hopeing to solve my slipping problem. was it all a waste of money, or will i still be beter off with the new springs?


for me i know the yellow main spring (1500 torque spring) is a must keeps the belt tighter in the clutch pulley and lets it down shift faster along with giving you more rpms to get the rollers or sliders moving.
the clutch springs i can't say but listening to some of veteran riders that has tried different things i think i will stick to the stock clutch springs,it fits me the best.
thats just my opinion
pud

_________________
2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now



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ajbkid
Post Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:54 pm 
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Confused i hope the clutch spings didnt put me in the wrong direction.

do you think the new springs made me slower. i thought it felt like it, but i dont know (speedometer calibration got reset)
i definetly can feel the delayed clucth activation.

Hey now that i have you, what does it mean if at low rpms the gas feels choppy, or sputery, or sorta like a prop plane staling?
it make the engine sound tough and cool, but id rather have the ability to contol it.
my muffler baffles are loose inside if that maters.

_________________
2005 TALON GX150 IIR
*Bike speedometer
*9g rollers
*1500 main clutch spring
*1500 clutch springs
*Yamaha blaster shocks in rear
*stock talon REAR shocks in front
* UNI filter
*120 main jet



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