I have recently added several HopUps to the Titan II. The latest two that will be talked of here are a Vinyl Nose cover and a Geo Metro Radiator.
The Vinyl was purchased from Walmart for $8. Make sure you get 2 yards. I then purchased 5ft of heavy duty peel and stick velcro $8.
I started by cutting the length of velcro down the center to make 2 long thin pieces of velcro (hook, and loop) now we have 10 ft of velcro.
Next I removed the front storage basket on the buggy. It is not as useful to me as the nose cover;)
You can measure all the angles and bends individually and form a layout, or you can turn the vinyl cotton side up and trace out a diagram of the area you will be attaching it to. I can't exactly describe these attachment parts but the photo's will give you a decent idea, maybe. This is an easy project and I accomplished this with no Idea what I was doing in a few hours. After I cutout the shape of the nose, I placed velcro all along the outside of the vinyl side. I know this is awkward, but you put it on the vinyl side, and roll it under when attaching it to the velcro that has now been stuck to the frame. I had intentions of sewing the vinyl edge over 1" to hold the velcro, but the sewing machine I had can't handle the thick vinyl.
Remember to unbolt the headlights and unplug the harness, mark the holes where they were and punch a hole there, also one bigger just to the right of each hole to run the wire back through.
Yes, this was a cobbled job, and also Yes, It worked fantastic. As a matter of fact, I suggest getting 2 yards of vinyl from the fabric section at walmart and the adhesive velcro, and wing it. Atleast you know it only cost $18 if you screw it up.
The next SWEET Hop up was a 1991 Geo Metro Radiator. These things are only 12" by about 13" or something. I picked one up for $40 at the salvage yard ( wanted $45, talked them down)
You will need reducers which can be purchased at local hardware or tractor supply. The reducers should be 1" to 5/8". as in it should go from 1" hose and reduce down to accept 5/8" hose. Also you will need a couple of feet of 1" radiator hose. Also some extra 5/8" radiator hose is cool for screw ups. I think 6feet is about $10 at the tractor supply. Way cheaper than the 1" stuff.
There is a decent amount of fab work involved in the radiator setup and it is all about what you think is cool. I removed the old piece of crap and tossed it in the trash. I should have recycled it and got a few bucks...dang.
The fans are wired to blow air which is not efficient as the blades are designed to pull. oh well. they put them like that and we will use them like that.
There needed to be a place to mount the fans. We ran a stretch of flat stock steel diagonal across the radiator. it will have the fans welded to it in one spot each (break off the short tabs, or use them to weld) Then the diagonal piece was bolted to opposite corners, and the fans bolted the same. Blah Blah Blah, I suck at directions, just trying to give ideas. On a side not, you can get the entire Cowl, Fan, And Radiator seperately on Ebay for like $135...awesome. I suggest this as it makes for better cooling and much less fab work.
next we made a tab out of flat stock a few inches long and welded it on the bottom rail almost vertical. There is already a Nut to thread into on the back of the radiator manufactured into it on the bottom so bonus, just get a fine thread bolt for it at the hardware store.
Next 2 braces were fabbed up out of flat stock to bolt to the top holes already manufactured in the radiator. The flat stock was bent to a 90 degree angle about 1 1/2" from the end and was drilled first to match the top hole in the radiator. There was a piece of flatstock also welded perpindicular to the bent piece to add rigidity (this is where some cheap angle iron would have been super easy, rather than making anglestock)
Two of these were made and welded almost level and horizontal.
There are 2 extra lines at the bottom of the radiator, plug them with something fancy, or cheap. Just make sure they are plugged.
That junky tempsensor on the old radiator is no longer needed. Just run a loop to a switch from the two ends that were attached to the sensor. When the circuit is closed they run, open, off.
Get a longer overflow line or move the overflow closer. connect...
now connect some hoses, add coolant, and walla!
you have a cooling masterpiece. lol. I am truly sorry. I really suck at the details, and enjoy watching people make thier own decisions. Be creative. Be inginuitive. This is a hobby for fabbing and creating. Do it!!!
Also I built my own muffler, why not! Also, get a battery like this from walmart for $20. They have 275 cold crankers and work perfect. i had to make a custom base to hold it. then used thread stock with a couple of tabs with holes drilled to slide on the thread stock to hold it down. tadah. be creative.
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