First, the bad news...tires were too knobby and hung over edge of drum, hitting base. Buggy was too wide for dyno. The tuner tried some rims w/different offsets and tried to reverse my stock tires which still didn't work. Tuner is looking for other tires...translation, another trip down.
Good news is he used his experience to tune it and said there's more to be found once we get it on the dyno. Although I've only tested it in my neighborhood, it runs and sounds great!!
Tuner builds drag ATV's and high performance ATV's and was quite impressed with my buggy, stating, "I'll have to get me one of these!" I replied, "With all the horsepower hanging around your shop, I wouldn't think you'd find the buggy exciting." He said that a port and polish would really add some kick. He could really feel the hit clutch when it kicked in (in a good way).
Now for the MRP carb...the guy said he was familiar with that style of carb. What I thought was the fuel adj screw, he called the power jet. Now I see why it's not just a bolt-on. The floats needed to be adjusted (I didn't touch them) and the main needle clip needed to be moved (another thing I didn't touch). The combination of parts, sliders, clutch, pipe and carb are definite improvements over stock. I'll let you know after I do some dirt-time but as of this moment, I'm totally pleased with everything.
Anyone in the mid Ohio area in search of dyno or motor work should contact Extreme Tech ATV in Mt. Gilead, Ohio. Their prices are fair and I highly recommend them.
Might anyone know what offset I would need to lose a few inches off the rear rims for dyno purposes?
I have no time on it,but what i see so far it should be good,and the guy that did work on it yesterday liked it.Its still set up as it came maybe when i go back to dyno ill let him mess around with it.Any thoughts about the extra 50cc yet.
To bad it didn't fit the dyno.
But at least the guy really knows his way around engines.
Glad to hear it's running good.
Your carb is more like mine than I thought.
These carbs are originally designed for 2-stroke.
Mine also needed setting the float level and needle adjustment.
I fact it needed a another needle entirely. Much leaner at 1/2 to 3/4.
With the engine now setup right, that Hit clutch really comes into play. I really like it. Once your back on the dyno, you can tweak it into the powerband. That will really make it do it's stuff.
Isn't mounting a set of 8 inch (wide) ATV wheels an option.
As long as the tire diam is the same, dyno results shouldn't differ that much. Maybe he has some you could lone for that purpose.
Port polish and maybe a little head shave...
Always a good idea... I'll save that for last.
I want that 300 cc mug first.
Jackster _________________ Buggy: Carter GTR 250 all black.
Mods: Mikuni TM33-8012 flatslide + custom manifold. MX-filter, Hit Clutch, Mallosi Red Main Spring + 7mm shim, 18gr Sliders, Iridium sparkplug, Custom front and rear shocks, Heavy duty front struts. In-ex snorkel.
Waiting for Jackster to take some engine measurements for comparison, or you could do it and we can compare.
Didn't you see my post on that?
http://www.buggynews.com/topic13305-10.html
Seems like we were both waiting for each other.
Jackster _________________ Buggy: Carter GTR 250 all black.
Mods: Mikuni TM33-8012 flatslide + custom manifold. MX-filter, Hit Clutch, Mallosi Red Main Spring + 7mm shim, 18gr Sliders, Iridium sparkplug, Custom front and rear shocks, Heavy duty front struts. In-ex snorkel.
Does the GTR have a locked differential? If so you could put one tire on the dyno and have the other out in space. Use a couple of jack stands to support the kart on the "airborne side". _________________ 05 Jehm Adventure Buggy 250cc, Torque Spring, 22.5gr Rollers, Modified Roll Cage, K&N, 21x7x10 & 22x11x10 Trac Star Radials, Vapor, Body Panels, 40T Spkt
&
2003 Jehm Blazer 125cc, Vapor
10 gram rollers, 20x10x8 Razr's,
34 tooth sprocket, 9pk cooler
Got a ride in,Those mrp parts must be just to powerfull(not really loose collar i think)sprocket walked on shaft,got it home to find bad carrier bearings,rear hub bearings,and some one forgot to put spacers in front wheel hubs which acounts for the sloppy plowing front end.I had spare front hubs,had back hubs and carriers redone.Now it handles much better and rolls freely.It sounds and runs great.Doing spring or shimming soon.So who moved the tie rods on the a arms,hows it working,did you cut that piece in rack,the one listed in carter service bullitin.Any one moved the battery and electric box up some.
Team Farm and De4Lee have moved their tie rods in closer to get tighter turning. De4Lee has relocated his electrical box to the top of the rack. If they don't chime in give them a PM. _________________ 08 Joyner SViper 250
07 Joyner SSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
06 Weekend Warrior WB FB2200
05 Ford F-250 PowerStroke
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206
04 Kawasaki Concours ZG1000
03 VW Jetta Wagon TDI
02 Paros 3500# 5x8
81 Honda Passport C70B
So who moved the tie rods on the a arms,hows it working,
I did the sterring mod, moved tye rod in 1" (for the majority of our riding this was mandatory, lots of of tight m/x type riding). I definetly accomplished my goal of titer steering, way more agile... Trade offs -- stock fenders rubbed hard & broke, so I built new ones, & steering is more of a handfull (if u have rode dirt bikes u probably know bout Arm Pump). I have broken two ball joints off this struts, but dont feel the steering mod caused/contributed to this (just ride it too hard often, GTR does appreciate jumps as much as my Joyner does).
Quote:
Any one moved the battery and electric box up some.
My elect box got more drainage holes, new fuse holders, etc., but left it mounted in stock location. Dee4Lee mounted his up on rack tho (he from Mud Country).[/quote]
IMG_0125.JPG: 4 Time(s) Viewed, 2.83 MB Steering mod
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