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<  Engine Clinic - Mini Off Road Buggy  ~  GY6 150cc where is the oil coming from?
Hurricane Man
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:58 pm 
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I am at either the point of shooting myself or selling this Kart.

I have just successfully replaced the piston rings since it was suspected as the number one culprit for oil on the spark plug and massive amounts of carbon in the combustion chamber. This went well and I was very careful. Changed oil, put it all back together, and she fired right up. Ran it up and down the road a few times at full speed getting it up to temperaure and all seemed well. Exhaust was not smoky, and breather wasn't smoking. Decided to make a slight valve adjustment, and ran some more and then it began. the smell of oil coming out and on to the exhaust pipe. Very slow. shut down, checked plug and found oil again all over the plug. Cleaned it up, let it idle for 15 minutes and no oil. Took it for another hot run up the road, and oil started showing itself again. Hard to tell, but it appears it is coming out around the flange on the exhaust. Plus I'm smoky out my exhaust pipe again. Gaskets look good. Evil or Very Mad Mad

What else can it be? I can only come up with one more idea which most people I spoke with said it was highly unlikely, and that is the Valve guide seals. Thinking that on the intake stroke I am pulling oil in. Another unknown for me; the breather on the tappet or valve cover (first cover to remove to adjust valves) is puffing air out all the time. Is this normal. I was told if that was blowing smoke, I definately had piston rings that were shot. plus I had a history inititially when I first ran this kart of a significant amount of dirt getting into the carberuator, so it all made sense. When I first fired this engine up after the Piston ring job, no smoke. now it is slightly puffing smoke. what is normal?

I don't want to give up, but nor I or my kids are having any fun with this kart at this time. Any Ideas on what to do next? Or suspicions? ask away if it helps. Can't hurt my feelings.

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BIGE
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:20 pm 
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a little oil on the plug and smoke from the exhaust is normal when a new set of rings are installed. does it smoke really bad and is the plug fouled to the point the engine quits due to lack of spark?

check the o-ring on the cam chain tensioner. oil will come from there. the breather hose is supposed to blow out air or built up crank case gas, a little oil there is normal.

the head has valve guides no seals. so if the guide is warn on the exhaust valve then oil will get into the cylinder and out the exhaust

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Hurricane Man
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:39 pm 
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no, the plug is not fouled, nor have I ran it long enought for that propably to occur. I am confident it will eventually, as everything is acting as it was before the piston ring change. No oil coming from the chain tensioner.
The breather is blowing out pretty strong, and has a strong pulse about it, like it is matching the stroke of the piston. where does this pressure and pulsation coming from?

What I don't understand is; If the Valve guides are good, how could any pressure or pulse accumulate in that outer teppet chamber where the cam, chain, rocker arms, breather, etc. are ?

I am assuming since I have oil on my plug it is coming from the exhaust port and leaking around the exhaust pipe flange. It is so dificult to determine it's origin. It is only significant , when i crank into it, and drive up the road. Idling, isn't a problem.

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BIGE
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:13 pm 
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ok, pull the fan plastic off and look at where the cylinder meets the case. and also look at the bottom of the valve cover
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Hurricane Man
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:19 pm 
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No, Nothing at the valve cover and nothing at the case.
I only see oil around the exhaust port.

Regardless, I still don't know the answers I posed on the previous posting. I'm hoping someone can answer. I want to be sure everything else is good and what I described is acceptable.

Thanks BIGE, I need all the help I can get!

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ckau
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:44 pm 
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I'm betting you have a warped head. sucking oil through the head gasket.
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Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:46 pm 
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that was going to be my next thought, go going charlie makes sense to me
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I.T.P. tire and wheel dealer
www.mcdonoughpowersports.com






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Hurricane Man
Post Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:17 pm 
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well, I guess we all don't want to hear there is the chance of a warped head.
But does anyone know about this:The breather is blowing out pretty strong, and has a strong pulse about it, like it is matching the stroke of the piston. where does this pressure and pulsation coming from? is this normal?

If the Valve guides are good, how could any pressure or pulse accumulate in that outer teppet chamber where the cam, chain, rocker arms, breather, etc. are ?

I'll live with the fact I have a warped head, but I should point out that I used head gasket sealant along with the gasket. This was done in hopes of any descrepencies on the face. I had a straight edge pulled across it and it only appeared that at one corner it possibly was out a thousand or two, but so slight it was so difficult to see. wouldn't it have to be out quite a bit? Thoughts?

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ckau
Post Tue Feb 26, 2008 1:20 am 
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Hurricane Man wrote:
well, I guess we all don't want to hear there is the chance of a warped head.
But does anyone know about this:The breather is blowing out pretty strong, and has a strong pulse about it, like it is matching the stroke of the piston. where does this pressure and pulsation coming from? is this normal?

Thoughts?

the "pulses" you feel are not normal. It basically means the gasket between the head and cylinder has failed for one reason or another. The pulses are compression traveling across the gasket, up one of the head bolt holes or into the timing chain cavity. you mentioned there was excessive oil around the exhaust. Possibly that is where the warping started due to some extreme overheating at some point, or oil getting sucked into the compression chamber is blown out around the exhaust gasket. I have yet to see a exhaust gasket that doesn't leak to some degree.
First thing I would do is check the head for warping. Use a sheet of glass, spread an even thin layer of course rubbing compound on the surface. lay the head on it and with slight pressure move the head in an circular motion. lift the head and wash off the residue. the highs and lows will be apparent as night and day. you can level out an uneven surface with this method and some elbow grease, if the differences are not to extreme. Use a NEW gasket and spray a heavy coat of aluminum spray paint on both sides, allow the paint to tack up then install. Do not use any kind of sealant! the paint has aluminum particles in it [for the color] and they will bond the gasket to the mating surfaces. Torque the head bolts to specs using a figure eight pattern , gradually tighten all the bolts progressively to final torque. If this does not cure the problem,at least you will have narrowed down the causes to a bent valve or bad seals. It is cheaper for me, [time and labor wise] just to replace the head with a new unit. then rebuild the old head at my leisure for a spare

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Hurricane Man
Post Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:25 am 
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Thanks Ckau, Thanks to all you guys. I'll tear it apart one more time. Maybe I'll just order new parts and then deal with the old ones later, as you suggested.

Now, I am confused how this could have occurred. I would imagine that only by the engine overheating. I never had any indication of the engine overheating or reason for it to overheat. I know that I had oil on my plug from the beginning, so I am curious if this head could have come to me this way? Possible? maybe worsened over time. and should I totally just forget the idea of valve guides leaking bye?
Now on top of those questions, how dang important is that plastic guard that wraps around the engine assembly. I was thinking it served a purpose in cooling the engine. In doing all this repair work recently, a screw came out on the exhaust side of this shroud and it fell down and burned off a section on the exhaust pipe. Now the bottom right corner of this shroud is not present because it was originally one whole piece and there is nothing to support it near the bottom to keep it in place . basically the whole bottom shroud assembly is now in two pieces. So, Is it imperitive to order a whole new shroud assembly? thoughts? Confused

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XT150 GK BMX



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