800cc carb Vacuum POT removal

Posts: 200

Hello Im trying to get rid of that pesky Vacuum POT that controls the secondary throttle plate. I have found some very helpful pictures from somebody on the forum who did it. from the pictures I pretty much got the idea of what to do...

http://www.buggynews.com/topic10382.html

just rearranging the throttle linkages and removing some stuff...
What I need to know, and what the pictures dont show, is do I need to cut any of the linkage brackets on the main throttle spring in order to prevent contact/binding between the carb parts?

Posts: 15 · Newbie Joined: 31 Dec 2007 Posts: 15 Pictures: 0

Hi...how did you end up with the carb secondary vacuum? Did you replace it with a mechanical setup?

--Larry B.

Posts: 335

If you cant figure it out or don't want to I sell the piece you need that replaces the factory plate. You might need a slightly stiffer return spring because of the extra drag. They are a little trickey to install , just pay close attention to how it comes apart. Best way my customers handle it is to take several picture's of the linkage befor you disassemble it , then you have a referance. Good luck.

Later W.C.

Posts: 335

Forgot to tell you , this pin " where this open hole is" needs removed in the process. No you cant rearange the factory linkage it doesnt work, you need the plate.

Later W.C.

Posts: 335

Wow sorry for all the posts I will get it rite one of these times!!!
Here is the photo that needed to be on the last post and the first one for that matter Very Happy

.

Sorry W.C.

Posts: 200

Nice to talk to you again WC.
That is a nice looking solution....
but I dont understand why I shouldnt be able to get it to work like how vibe27 did in his pictures in the thread that I linked to... he says it makes a big difference with his setup and it costsed him nothing. To me it looks like he just cut that round lobe off the main linkage bracket (that stops against idle adjust screw), and then removed the 'factory plate' (the part you replace with your new plate), and also got rid of the linkage bracket that is anchored to the carb body with that weird plastic thing (what is that brackets purpose anyway?). Then he removed the pin that normally slides along that lobe he cut off, and moved the return spring to the hole left by the missing pin (the hole the arrow in your picture points at). The other end of the spring is moved to a hole drilled farther forward on the throttle cable bracket above. And Of course the Vacuum POT and the spring plunger is removed from the linkage bracket for the secondary.

The reason I started this thread is that I was not sure if I needed to cut the bracket, but now that I studied more Im almost sure I need to cut it... any input from someone who has set their carb up like this? thanks in advance

Posts: 335

I did see the post and it looks like it works . The only thing that concerns me is when is the flat plate going to dig a grove in the round pin and start to stick?? The plastic roller on the pin is a manual positive shut down for the secondary. If you look at my comparison picture of the two plates the stock plate hits the secondary pin when you let off the throttle and makes sure the secondaries close.
I tell you what I have gave the last ten plates away to the B/N guys so PM me with your address and I will send you one , just to show how well it works. My cnc end mill need the workout anyhow.

Later W.C.

Posts: 200

Yeah you are right, I can see the groove in the pin already in his picture... and someone else in that thread also stated that it started to bind up for them and they switched to weber mod.....
Your method is far better, Im not arguing that. I was interetsed in experimenting is all. BUT if you are willing to hook me up with a free plate then I will definitely wait for that. That would be great, right on man Cool

sending PM....

Posts: 15 · Newbie Joined: 31 Dec 2007 Posts: 15 Pictures: 0

Posts: 335

I dont post prices, I think it is a rule not to on B/N not sure.
You can e-mail , or PM me and we can talk.

Later W.C.