I was riding a couple of weeks ago and got caught in heavy rain. We decided to keep moving because we were not going to stay dryer by stopping (besides it was a blast!). The entire buggy got soaked with rain and mud. The buggy ran fine throughout the rain storm and after it stopped. I hosed down the buggy when I got home and drove it around the block to annoy the neighboors(really to heat up and dry the engine). It sat for a week, then I went to crank it and the manuel choke was sticking. I used wd40 on the cable at both ends and the carb. springs where it attaches. This solved the choke sticking problem. Now the throttle is sticking(I assume it is sticking). When the gas pedal is pressed the engine revs and slowly decreases rpm untill it reaches approx. 2000rpm then stays there untill I push on the cable end at the carburator(where the cable attaches to the lever on the carb.) I have wd40'ed the cable at both ends and all the spring and levers on the carb. The problem has gotten worse not better since the wd40'ing. When releasing the throttle pedal the lever on the carb snaps back except for just a fraction of an inch. The engine returns to idle when I push the lever on down with my finger. There is a nut on the end of the rod that the lever is attached to, I loosened it a little and the idle speed dropped and increased when I tightened it back up(I hoped it would take resistance off the lever allowing it to return to idle normally. It did not help.) What else can I do ? Is there anything else that may be contributing to this trouble? Are there special cable or carb lubricants i should use? PLEASE ANY ADVISE? ( jOYNER 650 SAND SPIDER 07')
Go with what Steelbilly said or remove the cable completely and use his recommended cable lube without buying the tool. _________________ DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!!!!!!
DAZON 150 SINGLE SEAT
2.5inch rear wheel spacers
1.5inch front wheel spacers
UNI, 130jet, BIGE built intake tube, custom built exhaust, HO coil, adjustable CDI, iridium plug
If the lube does not solve your problem, then replacing the cable would be the thing to do. You do not want to have that cable hanging up at a time that is not appropriate. Let me know if you need one.
Thank you to steelbilly,team913 and doonrunr for the advise. I lubed the cable at both ends as much as possible,but it diden't help. I took the cable off at the carb. and lubed it while moving it in and out. This still diden't help. I cranked the engine with the throttle cable removed, the engine rev'ed and returned to idle normally. I was relieved because I thought there may be something wrong with the carb. I just need to replace the throttle cable.
Thanks again,
Clint
a small bit of advise, if you have tractor repair shops around call them and get the name of the guy that makes the cables for there controls and he can make you a new cable that is more heavy duty and will hold up to water and dirt......scott _________________ scott
Thank you to steelbilly,team913 and doonrunr for the advise. I lubed the cable at both ends as much as possible,but it diden't help. I took the cable off at the carb. and lubed it while moving it in and out. This still diden't help. I cranked the engine with the throttle cable removed, the engine rev'ed and returned to idle normally. I was relieved because I thought there may be something wrong with the carb. I just need to replace the throttle cable.
Thanks again,
Clint
How about just adding a helper spring at the carb to help return throttle. I have done this on my 650 buggy. _________________ 08 Polaris RZR!
All American made.
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If you have a motorcycle shop close by that deals in American style V-twins, see if they can get for you a "Teflon Coated Cable" that matches what you have on the Joyner. They are very smooth in their action and of course well constructed. _________________ DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!!!!!!
DAZON 150 SINGLE SEAT
2.5inch rear wheel spacers
1.5inch front wheel spacers
UNI, 130jet, BIGE built intake tube, custom built exhaust, HO coil, adjustable CDI, iridium plug
Make sure your cable is routed so that it's not near anything that gets hot. If the cable housing melts at all (internally or externally), it will cause the cable to bind.
Even with the new cable, I would recommend that you buy the cable lube and lubing tool. It will greatly extend cable life, and should be done periodically. Using the tool forces the lube all the way through the cable, so you get better coverage.
If your cable doesn't have a little rubber dust boot at the end, you may want to check your local motorcycle shop or parts stor and see if you can get one. It will give you some added protection so you don't get gunk in the new cable. _________________ LJ Tech 1100cc Sand Sport -- Working the bugs out...
2000 Honda 400ex -- Fully modified
2003 Honda 400ex -- Stock (Wife's bike)
1996 Honda CR250R -- My "Fast" toy
Thank you to steelbilly,team913 and doonrunr for the advise. I lubed the cable at both ends as much as possible,but it diden't help. I took the cable off at the carb. and lubed it while moving it in and out. This still diden't help. I cranked the engine with the throttle cable removed, the engine rev'ed and returned to idle normally. I was relieved because I thought there may be something wrong with the carb. I just need to replace the throttle cable.
Thanks again,
Clint
How about just adding a helper spring at the carb to help return throttle. I have done this on my 650 buggy.
I noticed my cable was sticking and i only have 6 miles on my 08 snadspider i think i'm going to try the helper spring at the carb that seems like a great idea. _________________ 2008 SANDSPIDER 650
BROKEN DIFFRENTIAL OUTPUT SHAFT