Hello,
I have been asked about upgrades to the Raider 90's. Here are my top 4 easy upgrades for under $50.00 that makes huge improvements to these buggies.

1. K&N Air filter, or uni filter.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/univcone.aspx

2. Removing throttle limiting spacer inside carburetor.

3. Punch out exhaust, a must.

4. 12 tooth drive sprocket. 25% lower gearing, makes second gear very usable.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/KS003509.html?id=c4mFLm2k

If buying new chain motorcycle shop will recognize the chain size as a 428.


Pete

Great - thanks for the link for the sprocket. That second gear is awfully high compared to first.

Quick question on the exhaust - when you gutted it, did you cut it length-wise or just cut off the end to get to the innerds? Thanks - great suggestions.

Ron,
Here are a few pictures on the exhaust and gearing.
Both of my Raider 90's had large sloppy welds restricting the flow at the inlet side of the pipe a quick die grind makes a big improvement.

The muffler end is stupid the stock way; a larger pipe goes into the muffler and TWO pipes allow the exhaust to move through the muffler only to be reduced back down to one small pipe leaving. No internal modifications of the muffler are needed just enlarge the output. The engine will now start to perform and sound like it should.

The gearing change is great; most of the kids cruising is now in second gear with engine revs way down. When the gear arrives it will have a face plate on it that will need to be removed, simple.



Let me know if I can be of anymore help.


Rock on!

Pete

After removing the restricting collar, replacing the air filter, and rejetting - opening up the exhaust really helped our 90 to wind-out quicker at high RPMs. I did the same thing - drilled out the original tailpipe. Then I welded on a piece of conduit as a new tailpipe and painted it all black again.
I may have to try one of those sprockets - did you have to remove any links in the chain?
Tim

My only concern about the sprocket change is this: does it make first gear pretty much useless? It already winds up pretty darn quick.

Tim,
Nice job!
I’m not sure on the removing a link thing. The stock chain was old and cheap, I replaced it with a pre stretched O-ring chain. Chain size at the Honda shop is 428. Rejetting if needed very important, color of the spark plug and response of engine best way to test short of air fuel mixture. I put the 26mm Mikuni carb on at the same time and the jetting was correct.

Great Machines.

Pete

Ron,
I like the lower first gear, all the better for hills and a must for paddle tires plus the kids can get stuck better!!
In the stock configuration cruising speed on a dirt road or track seems to be right between first and second gear. You know what I’m talking about; doesn’t it send a shiver up your spine when your kid comes buy in first gear a maximum RPMS and temperature?

The first problem with second gear in the stock configuration is the engine and clutch do not have enough torque to push the buggy through a slow tight turn especially in loose sand.

A HUGE PROBLEM I had with second gear was the top speed +-25mph is just to fast for the stability of the buggy, swerving and fish tailing presented a true problem. I gained in performance by lowering the gearing and most importantly gained safety for my kiddos. The buggies still go plenty fast.

Most of our driving now is in second gear with a much reduced RPM, the engines are much happier!


Pete