I finally was able to get the SUNL 150 buggy out for some extending riding. The speed was better than expected. I was able to turn some great 180's and great power slides.
I had a few problems, though. The first was minor. The parking brake needed to be adjusted, because it was grabbing when disengaged. Resolved pretty easy.
Second, switching into reverse was very inconsistent. I would say about 50% of the time it worked well; I would engage the reverse shifter and the buggy would transition into reverse very well and then back to forward smoothly. However, other times it was a bit more tricky; It would go into reverse, but after disengaging, it would still go backward for a few feet, then 'CLANK' it would abruptly change to forward. It took some finesse. Three or four times after switching back to forward, I would get some loud grinding. I quickly disengaged and the grinding halted. I always made sure I was completed stopped before engaging reverse.
The third issue was even more disturbing and left me very concerned. I tried to climb some hills and found that the buggy is not good at conquering a nice size hill; and I am in the plains of Texas, so the hills are not that big. Anyhow, as I climbed the buggy would run out of power, low end torque was needed, and then I get a loud bang, bang, bang. Kind of like someone was hitting the back end with a hammer. I would let off the gas and coast back down the hill and then resume on the flat lands with no problem. It also happened when I was going over a small but steep incline, again when low end torque was needed. It even happened when I was backing it up the trailer (we are talking about a 3 foot run up 15 inches.) It is very strange, just a loud bang, bang, bang.
on the bang check the chain and the tension jam nut to see if it has play. _________________ Paul
2005 150cc Twister HammerHead JR
Mods 10 gram sliders In work 1500 RPM & TM24 carb
2003 buell Firebolt
2003 KX250
Second, switching into reverse was very inconsistent. I would say about 50% of the time it worked well; I would engage the reverse shifter and the buggy would transition into reverse very well and then back to forward smoothly.
I would lube the reverse cable. They are way too long on those buggies and tend to bind. Sometimes they won't go into reverse gear all the way, and also won't release completely. The cable is just too dry from the factory, and stretches in a few days (if it doesn't break first). You can avoid this problem with a little oil.
Disconnect the reverse cable at the reverse lever. Get a sandwich baggie and a rubber band. On one corner of the baggy snip it just big enough for the cable to slip thru. Secure with the rubber band on the black outer sheath. Then find a way to hang/secure the baggie. Pour a couple of
ounces of motor oil in, and let it stand all night. The oil will slowly work it's way thru the complete length of the cable. You'll even see some drip out on the ground at the reverse gearbox end. The next day reassemble. You'll be amazed at how much easier it works. The reverse lever should have a little play in it, about 1/2 inch. The cable should not be too tight. If it is, in forward gear, you'll get popping. If it pops in reverse the cable is not tight enough.
The banging is most likely your chain trying to skip.
You need to make sure the bracket that holds the rear of the engine to the swing arm is tight and not loose. If the engine can move side to side at all, this will happen.
-Steve _________________ 2004 KPX Xterro: pumper carb, oil cooling, 10 gram rollers, Toy junkies pipe, uni
2005 Blade 150 DX: 4 Valve head, 10 gram rollers, East Side pipe, uni
I thought that the banging sound might have been caused by the chain; it does have some play in it; I will adjust it before the next run.
Thanks Hopsterguy and Pltice.
Also, thanks for the suggestion about the brake cable, Ric. I know I can count on you for help; It's nice to know you are in the area in case I really need some major support.
The chain should have back and forth play (not left and right)
Don't make the chain totally tight... you can break a final drive shaft that way (or jackshaft... whatever you want to call it)
Just want to make sure I'm clear that part that is most likely loose is the part that holds the rear of the engine to the swing arm. On most of our buggys a single large chain adjustment bolt goes through the swing arm and is attached to the rear of the engine case through several different types of brackets. If that bracket is allowed to shift left and right the chain will skip like you say.
Sorry if I'm long winded here... I just want to make sure you understood my meaning.
Take it easy!
-Steve
R K H wrote:
I thought that the banging sound might have been caused by the chain; it does have some play in it; I will adjust it before the next run.
Thanks Hopsterguy and Pltice.
Also, thanks for the suggestion about the brake cable, Ric. I know I can count on you for help; It's nice to know you are in the area in case I really need some major support.
_________________ 2004 KPX Xterro: pumper carb, oil cooling, 10 gram rollers, Toy junkies pipe, uni
2005 Blade 150 DX: 4 Valve head, 10 gram rollers, East Side pipe, uni
If the chain is rediculously loose, then yes.. tighten it up. But you need to keep the proper amount of free play in it like the manual states. So look for side to side (left to right) engine movement as well.
-Steve _________________ 2004 KPX Xterro: pumper carb, oil cooling, 10 gram rollers, Toy junkies pipe, uni
2005 Blade 150 DX: 4 Valve head, 10 gram rollers, East Side pipe, uni
nice oiling idea. I'll have to try that. The poping noise happens to me to. i recently put reverse in my yerf. I'll check my chain. Oil my cable and adjust it. I'll get back to you on how it went _________________ yerf-dog 3209
N.E. "GANG"
20x7x8 larger fronts and backs,new shocks,fenders,uni,reverse,10g rollers,1500 spring,39T spocket,supertrapp mufler,reinforced A-arms,new ball joints, BODY KIT, mikuni carb, single seater,
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