#6206-2RS (rubber sealed) _________________ 05' Carter Talon GSX 150 2R
39t rear sprocket
9.5g sliders
NGK Iridium Plug
H.O. Bando Coil
Dr.P Hit clutch (backup)
1500# torque spring (soon...very soon)
125 main jet
42 pilot jet
MRP Air Filter (rednecked)
Drilled out stock exhaust
I believe my front wheel bearing is shot. I get a squeaking pooping sound from my front wheel, I am sure the bearing is wasted. Not sure if the spindle has suffered. Any info on replacing this, parts number, size and easiest process? or am I on my own, if so I can document my findings as well. Any help would be sincerely appreciated….
Does it pop over jumps but not pop otherwise? Because mine seems to "pop" on the second bounce and i was thinking what the heck could that be.
The pictures are from my manual i bought mine this year but id imagine it would be the same.
It looks pretty straight forward to change them.
Hope the pictures help.
ouch.. only 14 for mine. Big difference in bearings for a 150 vs 250? Sorry... Bearing and Transmission in Edmonton, not NAPA.
I ended up paying 28 per bearing which i thought was pretty steep but still alot cheaper then napa's 45 per bearing. _________________ Darren,
Buggy Junkies
Too much power is almost enough!
I finally replaced the left front wheel bearings. They began squeaking and popping.
There are two; front mangled beyond recognition/reference(see below for digital caliper specs.) and rear (6204Z).
To perform-block rear tires on both sides-front and back (safety first). Loosen wheel nuts. Jack up the front and place wood block under buggy in case it may fall. You will need to remove the front wheel, remove pin on the hub nut, bend flat and give it a squeeze with pliers to ensure the pin slides out easy with a little tug from some needle nose pliers on the loop side (keep retaining pin, tap it flat again or I suggest replacing the pin with new ones $3 for a bunch-get a few at the auto parts store), Loosen Hub Nut (hub nut 22mm). I had to loosen nut with impact driver, remove washer behind hub nut. Remove brake caliper-6mm hex-I put on locktite on the hex bolts-soft compound to be removable. Hub should slide straight off with a little wiggling.
The replacement bearings came from O'Reilly's Auto Parts
There are two bearing; one at the front of the hub (smaller)
and larger one at the rear. Neither of these oem bearing were sealed-so I rectified that and went with sealed bearings.
Replaced the front with Federal Mogul (202-FF) $13 dimensions .588 ID, 1.377 OD, & .43 thickness (wide). Rear replaced with Federal Mogul (204-FF) $17 dimensions .788 ID, 1.85 OD, & .55 Thick (wide).
Removal of the damaged front bearing was a nightmare, as you need to use caution not to scratch the hub wall. Rear was tapped out from the front through the back with deep bore 22mm socket after the front bearing pieces were removed.
Reassemble:
(Hub Rear) Use large thick steel washer 1.75 OD to tap the bearings in. (Hub Front) smaller washer 1.25 OD front-ensure the washers are larger enough to cover the outer diameter of the bearing, yet small enough to be able to slide in with no friction-as you need to remove easily. I used Deep bore socket on top of the washer to tap new bearings in straight and even. Use wood block as base under the hud to ensure no damage to the hub assembly, while tappng in new bearings.
Put everything back together the way it came apart. Slide on hub with new bearings installed, reinstall the washer on the spindle and tighten hub nut-install retaining pin-bend accordingly to ensure pin will not backout. Use some solvent and clean the brake rotor, install brake caliper and insert locktite hex bolts-tighten securely. Tire up, replace rubber hub assembly dust cover and you are set to ride. I bought an extra set for the right side and a spare set as, well-just in case. Total time: 1 1/2 to 2+hours plus trip to the auto parts store. Hope this helps, if any more detail needed-let me know
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