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| < Off Road Go Kart & Mini Buggy Discussion ~ What Should Clutch Pads Feel Like? |
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read this first please (only first few posts) http://www.buggynews.com/topic14263.html
Well, if you are familiar with my other recent posts, than you know that i am having clutch problems.
1st: what should my clutch pads feel like. Mine are smooth just like the metal pully surface.
2nd i belive my clutch bell is blued from excesive heat, but dose it NEED replacing.
3rd can i rough up the clutch pads with sand paper to get a beter grip.
4th what is a good and hopfuly chep clutch that has a larger surface on the pads?
Thanks
Anthony _________________ 2005 TALON GX150 IIR
*Bike speedometer
*9g rollers
*1500 main clutch spring
*1500 clutch springs
*Yamaha blaster shocks in rear
*stock talon REAR shocks in front
* UNI filter
*120 main jet
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| ajbkid wrote: |
read this first please (only first few posts) http://www.buggynews.com/topic14263.html
Well, if you are familiar with my other recent posts, than you know that i am having clutch problems.
1st: what should my clutch pads feel like. Mine are smooth just like the metal pully surface.
2nd i belive my clutch bell is blued from excesive heat, but dose it NEED replacing.
3rd can i rough up the clutch pads with sand paper to get a beter grip.
4th what is a good and hopfuly chep clutch that has a larger surface on the pads?
Thanks
Anthony |
on my stock clutch pads they are sort of cream colored with metal flakes in them,smooth but a dall color.
on mine when they get glazed with a touch of belt dust they get black looking and shinny, really slick.looks like they have been waxed
i use some fine grit sand paper and de-glaze them and they look new again.also i use emry cloth and rough up the clutch bell good.i go across the clutch bell all away around it making the scratch marks across the inside of bell.its been working good for me and i'm still running original clutch and bell but i'm starting to get some ware after a couple of years now.i ride alot to and constantly clutch kicking in and out for my riding area.
i know there are better clutches out there but the stock setup seems to work ok for me.knock on wood so far just normal belt were and stretching of the belt.
pud _________________ 2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now
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1st: what should my clutch pads feel like. Mine are smooth just like the metal pully surface.
It's hard to tell visually whether or not they are glazed and need replaced.
2nd I belive my clutch bell is blued from excesive heat, but dose it NEED replacing.
Blue is from heat but it doesn't need erplaced unless it's warped. If its blue on one side and not the other, then maybe.
3rd can i rough up the clutch pads with sand paper to get a beter grip.
I don't think so.
4th what is a good and hopfuly chep clutch that has a larger surface on the pads?
Quality of materials is more important than the size of the pads. I'm not a fan of buying OEM parts. If you can find an aftermarket supplier, that's usually the way to go. You almost always pay more, but there's a reason. I wish I knew if mine would fit your machine. I went front the stock steel to an aftermarket aluminum clutch on the kid's 90cc and it's performed flawless.
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thanks for the tips guys.
il try scratching up my stock pads, and bell first and F-around with that.
the clucth is more important to grip than the bell right? _________________ 2005 TALON GX150 IIR
*Bike speedometer
*9g rollers
*1500 main clutch spring
*1500 clutch springs
*Yamaha blaster shocks in rear
*stock talon REAR shocks in front
* UNI filter
*120 main jet
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| ajbkid wrote: |
thanks for the tips guys.
il try scratching up my stock pads, and bell first and F-around with that.
the clutch is more important to grip than the bell right? |
yep the less slippage the better the clutch will do.
like i said i just used some fine grit sand paper on clutch pads and clean that glaze off
then some heavier grit sand paper or emry cloth on the clutch bell make the scratches marks across, work it for about 20 minutes to a 1/2 hour all away around it good.
i think you will see a difference ,how long it lasts i can't tell you.i guess it depends how bad you slip the clutch on the side of steep hill.
hope this helps you out some
pud _________________ 2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now
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I'm curious about the blueness of the clutch bell. It's obviously from heat, but does that mean the bell is junk? _________________ Ron
2007 Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, a/m exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP pumper carb, 135 main jet, iridium plug, ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2006 Baja 90 Shifter
2005 Talon 150 (sold)
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If the bell shows signs of warping, scoring or fractures, it has to be replaced. When the bell is blued, this is an indication that something is wrong and you need to dig deeper into the clutch assembly and variator to find the damage and determine the cause. The earlier you discover a problem the less damage it will do. _________________ 08 Joyner SandViper 250
07 Joyner SandSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 4209 GX150 (SOLD)
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206 GX150
81 Honda Passport C70B
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| supersoxy wrote: |
| I'm curious about the blueness of the clutch bell. It's obviously from heat, but does that mean the bell is junk? |
With a little use, I think they all become discolored. I bought a bell with holes in it a while back that was supposed to dissipate heat, but I don't know if it works or not, I never could get it to fit right.
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| supersoxy wrote: |
| I'm curious about the blueness of the clutch bell. It's obviously from heat, but does that mean the bell is junk? |
supersoxy my friend has a titan style 250cc pretty heavy machine he had gotten his clutch bell pretty hot a few times and just couldn't figure out why.then one day i was riding with him in his buggy with are weight and the extras he had added to it was probably 400lbs.we were going up the side of a power line (steep) then he just stoped because he wouldn't to show me something.then when he went to take off he just smoke the clutch .we get a rolling and then he said i smell some thing i said you ought to you just smoke the he33 out of your clutch then a week later the next time he rode it he said he couldn't hardly get up a hill.he had really glazed the clutch pads bad and also blued the bell in a couple of spots almost all away around it, rainbow colored.
i agree with pghruby but his wasn't worped or have heat cracks in it anywhere so i clean every thing up and put it back together and away he went.
this power line was steep enough i couldn't hold a 4 wheel drive kubota tractor with bush hog on back of it.took one heck of a ride off it.
boy these clutchs take alot for know bigger then they are.
pud _________________ 2006 sunl 150b
Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter, 125 main jet at 1,450 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
trying a set of 10gram rollers now
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Thanks for the replies. I took it off and scuffed up the bell a little bit with some emery cloth and then did the same with the clutch pads. I wasn't having any problems, just thought what the he77. We'll see if it changes the way it climbs. I want to get that Hit clutch, but didn't want to spend any money on it until my stock clutch was used up. Thanks again. _________________ Ron
2007 Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, a/m exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP pumper carb, 135 main jet, iridium plug, ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2006 Baja 90 Shifter
2005 Talon 150 (sold)
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