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<  Engine Clinic - Mini Off Road Buggy  ~  Won't start cold even on 95 degree day
tlm
Post Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:39 am 
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When first starting my HH150SS each day (this has been going on for weeks) I have to cover the end of the air inlet tube (manually choke) with my hand or the engine will not start. Once started and warmed up I can restart it over and over all day. Since there is no actual choke on these CV carbs, is this something related to the 'fuel enrichment' system? I don't quite understand how this system works. Is the enrichment valve normally open or closed when shut down? I have done a thorough cleaning of the carb and have tried swapping CV carbs including the enrichment valve and still have the same problem. There doesn't seem to be a fuel supply problem since it runs great once started. Any suggestions?
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supersoxy
Post Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:44 am 
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A couple ideas...

I would make sure your rubber intake doesn't have a leak. Get your buggy running and spray some starting fluid around the rubber intake behind the carb. If the engine surges, you probably have a bad intake, which is about a $20 part.

Also, you may need to set your valves. My 150 Talon started hard and then ran good after warm up like yours. I adjusted the valves and it started right up and idled perfectly.

Good luck.

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2007 Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, a/m exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP pumper carb, 135 main jet, iridium plug, ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
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simsim44
Post Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:04 pm 
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What's controls the "enrichment valve".....temp sensor?
Maybe your not getting a cold signal, per say, maybe lieing to the carb and telling it It's already hot. ie; Bad sensor.
Tim

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pud
Post Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:25 pm 
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simsim44 wrote:
What's controls the "enrichment valve".....temp sensor?
Maybe your not getting a cold signal, per say, maybe lieing to the carb and telling it It's already hot. ie; Bad sensor.
Tim


simsim these fuel enrichments valves (chokes) works off the power from stator, same part of the stator that runs the lights.
when you start engine power goes to it heating a wax like thing with a spring and needle shoving it down in the choke base shutting the extra fuel off after a few minutes of running.
it takes power to keep it shut off when running,then when you shut motor off it cools down and opens back up
i don't think mine ever worked wright from the get go,i done the convert over to manual with the bolt ,also when you do this you can unplug it in the electrical box helps you with the power going to the lights, they will do better
pud

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John
Post Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:41 pm 
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tlm keep us posted I am having the same problem on two GK-13's. On is three years old and the other is a 2008 with about 5 hours on it. I've replaced carbs, cdi, coil, plug, voltage regulator, intake and the entire fuel line. In all of this I learned a few things.

New GK-13: When we pulled the stock fuel filter it was full of crap. Also we found what I thought was a white plastic reducer inside of the fuel inlet on the carb. When we pulled it out it looked more like a little filter screen stuffed into the brass fitting. It was plugged with crap as well. From there we replaced all the fuel line with large clear line. We then noticed all kinds of crap flowing from the tank to the carb. We pulled and noticed it was full of what looked like gooey window putty. OH BOY we thought we solved the problem and indeed the buggy started over and over again while in the shop. But when we took it out to ride we couldn't even start it on the trailer. I had to loosen the air box and stuff a piece of cardboard in there to manually choke it. After that it started and ran good all day long...until the next morning. Then it had to be choked again.

Being that's new I called Goldenvale to talk with their tech. He told me to check the intake manifold, I did. I asked about valve adjustment. He said he doubted it but when I told him I'm only getting about 70lbs of

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John
Post Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:44 pm 
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woops here is the rest of the post

He installs a compression gauge into the plug hole and has someone turn the engine over while he moves both valve adjusters in. He goes until he gets his highest compression reading. Then he starts all over again but this time he adjusts one at a time moving each adjuster out until he looses compression then back in until it comes back. He says the “static” way doesn’t always work as well.

Then I talked with my mechanic who said the previous owner (of my shop) did the same.
But when he had a hard starting buggy he would simply move the adjusters in one notch at a time until the buggy started then call it good. “worked every time and they never came back”.

Sounds haphazard doesn’t it?

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BIGE
Post Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:44 am 
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remove the by stater valve and measure it, then hook 12 volts to it for about 10-15 minutes. then remeasure. it should have moved. if it did not move then the bu stater is bad. my wifes buggy did that until I converted it to a manual choke. starts everytime
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tlm
Post Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:39 am 
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Thanks for the suggestions. Haven't had a chance to try them yet as I've been away. I'll let you know how things go later in the week.
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John
Post Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:02 pm 
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woops
I just noticed that TLM is talking about a 150 and I'm referencing a CN250. Sorry about that.

BIGE any luck on the manual choke kit for my application?

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Post Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:00 pm 
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I have a few parts on back order for it. when they get here I will fit one on my 250 and check it. I do know it will not be as cheap as the 150 version
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I.T.P. tire and wheel dealer
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