On that brake light mod trace the wires from the brake switch. There may be 2 bullet connectors where you can unplug the wires & plug them into each other. I'm hoping my memory is good on this--I know the Yerf had these connectors and I *think* the Dune did, too. If not, you will need to cut & join them together. My Dune is up north at my cabin so I can't verify the brake switch wiring.
The buggy will now start without having to hold down the brake.
Now with no connection to the brake switch you cut into one of the wires going to your existing always-on tailight and run 2 wires from there down to the switch. Now your tailight will only come on when the brake is pressed. If you want to go further you can also install a resistor across the switch. This will keep the tailight on dim when the buggy is running but will go bright when the pedal is pushed.
Guy- I went to your website to see the brake mod but there aren’t any close pictures of it. I have the DN 150 but it didn't have an interrupt/safety switch on it. I ended up pulling the master - drilled and tapped it for a hydraulic interrupt, I ran a hot lead to the constant on the bulb and the interrupt lead to the brake contact of the bulb. It was easy and I got the part including the tap for under 10 bucks. The rear light is a dual filament trailer light (actual brake light) that I run off my second battery. But I would sure like to know if my DN was missing that cut off switch. _________________ DN150 and Reaction
DN150- Added a second battery with a three post battery isolator, 55w halos, radio with a 200w amp all encased in lexan, lexan moled windshild, modifiel stock pipe, Uni w/ redneck intake.
Do you need to turn the key AND hold down the brake to start the engine? If so--you have the switch. If not...maybe they stopped using that setup? _________________ _________________
2 Polaris RZRs & a Dune 150. Ridge Runner--Gone. Yerfdog 3206--Gone (but you never forget your 1st!).
Buggy pictures, mods, ideas, how-to's:
http://tinyurl.com/8ltm8
Guy- Nope I sure don't. Turned out ok though.... _________________ DN150 and Reaction
DN150- Added a second battery with a three post battery isolator, 55w halos, radio with a 200w amp all encased in lexan, lexan moled windshild, modifiel stock pipe, Uni w/ redneck intake.
Hey guys I got my Arctic cat front shocks, installed them, and yes they are soft. John i put the muffler adapters to shims the springs appox 2" and they seem okay on the street. I anxious to try them in the desert. The shims are meant to be a short term solution, so what I would like to know is, where did you get the yellow springs. Getting the yellow would be ideal, but the proper spring is my main objective. Any info would be great. BTW I'm not sure what the Baja reaction has as stock rollers, but I did check out my sprocket and it is a 33tooth opposed to the 31 tooth on the Dune. I was wondering why it seemed slower, but climbed better out the box than the Dune.
Greg _________________ 07 Sand Viper, Uni w/145,Hit CL,Predator Shocks,Wht tq Spg, HP CL,HP CDI,
Dune 150 w/CN250
Arctic cat front, Blaster rear shocks
22x10x11 lightfoots rear
Malossi clutch
aux lites
The standard Arctic Cat springs are about 80 Lbs/In. If you NEVER jump it and only ride on fairly smooth trails the 120 springs give a nice plush ride--but they're a bit too soft for rutted trails, whoops and jumps. RMB (John) has the hot ticket with his 150 Lbs/In springs. _________________ _________________
2 Polaris RZRs & a Dune 150. Ridge Runner--Gone. Yerfdog 3206--Gone (but you never forget your 1st!).
Buggy pictures, mods, ideas, how-to's:
http://tinyurl.com/8ltm8
Does the total weight (passengers and gear) make a difference in the spring # we should buy?
I know RMB and Guy ride single most the time, AZ has little passangers, GMan I'm not sure, I always have a pass, with total weight riders and gear no more than 275. Should I be looking at a heavy set then the 150#? _________________ Baja Dune 150
9 gram rollers, Yellow main spring, Uni Filter w/pre charger, HP CDI, HP Coil and Plug wire, Gutted exhaust, 130 main jet, all new balljoints and rod ends.
your stock spring rate is 200 lbs... that is one tough ride. You CAN go with the 175, but at only 25 less, i am not totally convinced you will feel a difference in the ride comfort. If you are running a max of 275/300, then I would totally go for the 150. If you were over 300, maybe the 175 springs would be the ticket, but the 150's have been great so far. I jump with the buggy every so often... I climb HUGE rocks, I ride very, very rough, uneven, abusive trails. There is not a soft, smooth trail in my town, area, or region, and even my streets have holes on bumps that rival some of our trails. The 150# springs have by far, been the best investment in ride comfort. The blaster shocks in the rear might be a little too stiff still, as the nose soaks up a ton of the bumps, but the rear flies sky high! lol
I def do not ever go over 300lbs, and would like the smoother ride. Can you get springs for the blasters as well? _________________ Baja Dune 150
9 gram rollers, Yellow main spring, Uni Filter w/pre charger, HP CDI, HP Coil and Plug wire, Gutted exhaust, 130 main jet, all new balljoints and rod ends.
Thanksfor the info. RMB what's your plan on shocks for the Reaction? Also does yours have the 33t sprocket?
Monk usually I ride solo. Occasionally my daughters humor dad and go for a ride. So I would want a springs in which the lowest setting would accomodate a single rider.
Greg _________________ 07 Sand Viper, Uni w/145,Hit CL,Predator Shocks,Wht tq Spg, HP CL,HP CDI,
Dune 150 w/CN250
Arctic cat front, Blaster rear shocks
22x10x11 lightfoots rear
Malossi clutch
aux lites
Articles
