I went out and ran some tests today now that the sun came out. I ran a tester between the bat. and cylinder head and
showed 12.4 volt so I assume good ground. Checked for voltage at coil, perispeed says should have 20-30 volts while
cranking I got .04. Not good. Checked resistance across blue and green wires of pickup ( pulse generator ) show 118.4 which is in specs.
Here is the weird one - The exciter coil ( Stator ) has 3 tests
1st - resistance between gray wire at cdi at ground.
I got 152.8. This was with the gray wire disconnected from
cdi. which is in specs.
2nd - Output voltage of exciter at gray wire at cdi to ground while disconnected. they say I should have around .5 volts while cranking. I get about .9 but fluctuates.
3rd - Output voltage of exciter at gray wire at cdi to ground while connected should have around 20-30 volts while cranking.
I got pretty much nada. I would assume this would mean that I have a bad stator, right ? Only thing is I just replaced it.
I got a similiar reading the 1st time around which was why I replaced it. If I get good resistance doesn't it mean that I have good connections ?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
"while it's connected" thats the clue, I'll try to explain, when you have the CDI disconnected and testing your using the meter as the ground, as where when your connected your using the CDI, so with that said check the ground out of the CDI while connected, then Ohm the two wires going to the coil while disconnected from the coil and still connected to the CDI, If it is open/ infinite resistance, I would condem the CDI, if you have a know good CDI I would retest with that as well. This is what I think, mind you I'm no rocket surgen, just what I have done, post back. Tim _________________ Turbo Turtle(for the little man)
XYKD260-1,
Stock; air in the tires and wind in my face!. Everything else has been Simacated!
Active member of MBRA and NEBA.
When you say infinite what kind of number should I see
on the meter 00 or what. The cdi was replaced also but
not sure about the quality of the Chinese electronics.
Sorry not that great with a meter. I can follow directions
and perform the tests just can't interpert the data
Thanks,
Chris
1st time it was a short on the pickup sensor.
2nd time it was a bad stator.
3rd time was a skip and a jump----shorted ground wire inside electrical box
for those with no money to spare for unnessesary parts i have all electronic parts used of course but they are all tested and work. well everything besides a silanoid.
if you want to try something then i can rent out the part and just return it to me for a paypal refund minus the few dollars for shipping of course.
im not trying to make money by no means but i can take a little time out of my day to stick a package in the mail to help someone. if it wasnt for buggynews i would be paying a buttload of money putting mine in the shop.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, Chris, It would be the same as if you hold both test leads in the air and not touching anything what ever the reading is , would be infinite. If you have it resolved great, if not you could PM me. _________________ Turbo Turtle(for the little man)
XYKD260-1,
Stock; air in the tires and wind in my face!. Everything else has been Simacated!
Active member of MBRA and NEBA.
Hey everyone,
Sorry it's been so long but have been really
busy. I had a friend of mine who is an ASE master
tech run over the wiring diagram and after testing
everything it looks like i may have got a bad CDI.
I called the supplier I got it from and told him the
results and he said he would send me a replacement.
That was 3 weeks ago so hopefully he hasn't changed
his mind. I have signal to the cdi from the pickup, I have
good ground at the cdi and I have proper voltage at the
cdi also but only 6 volts out. Specs say I should have
20 - 30 output. If I can't get a replacment from the
vendor I bought the 1st one from I might take you up
on it kracker. I am going to attach the wiring diagram
that I made up for the cn250 on my Perispeed. The colors
on the screen match the colors on my kart, (If you see a yellow wire with a red outside color that is a striped wire in that color) but they could be different on yours so only use them as a rough guide. I will post the diagnostic test on trouble shooting that my friend gave me to do, ( in plain english. I'm by no means an electronics wiz ) as soon as
I have time to sit down and compose myself.
Thanks for the help guys,
I hope to be running soon,
Chris
goKart Wire diagram.jpg: 15 Time(s) Viewed, 57.52 KB Not perfect but hopefully
it will help someone.
yes i hope you get it fixed i know what it is like to have problems and not know the cause. if you get the cdi from me i would like to try to have it returned when you figure out the problem and then you can buy you a new one. i know it sounds stupid but i like to always keep a spare and i could have it shipped to you in like 2 days and you could do the same back to me. i was just going to help you find out the issue.
cool to be able to find the issue paying like $1.50 for shipping only rather than 40.00 for a brand new part and the old one not be bad.
i think someone may can get you one for $15.00 or so. if you are shure that the cdi is the problem just ask some of the buggy dealers here. ask bige
8e27_1.jpg: 3 Time(s) Viewed, 10.68 KB here is what mine looks like
I have spare stock CDIs that I replaced with the performance versions. PM me if you want a used stock one - If buying new, go for the performance model for the better advance curve. _________________ 08 Joyner SandViper 250
07 Joyner SandSpider 650
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 4209 GX150 (SOLD)
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206 GX150
81 Honda Passport C70B
Thanks guys,
No problem Kracker, I'd want to keep
a spare also.
I think the plug on my kart may
be different than the one pictured.
I have a picture on disc somewhere.
I'll dig it up and post after work.
Thanks again guys,
Chris