I've got the stock carb. The 1/4 inch line does fit, but not very tightly, and after riding just a bit it was wet where it seeped around the line. _________________ ACE 250R2 uni with 125 jet, stock exhaust
150 sunl 130 jet, 39t sprocket, uni, blade performance pipe, 9.5gm rollers, 1500 spring, CDI
150 sunl-wasted engine-spare parts now
70cc Blade kart
Thats a great idea, on the teflon tape. I'll try it out. _________________ ACE 250R2 uni with 125 jet, stock exhaust
150 sunl 130 jet, 39t sprocket, uni, blade performance pipe, 9.5gm rollers, 1500 spring, CDI
150 sunl-wasted engine-spare parts now
70cc Blade kart
haha
come on now guys
if u show the expensive way to do it
u have to show the rig it method too!
the way i got set is:
I took the gas tank fliped it around 180 degrees so the fuel are on the battery side
the put some metal washers on the oppsite side. this lifts the non-fuel line side thus gravity pulls gas the the petcock side
I DO SUGGEST BUYING A NEW FUEL FILTER, AND BETTER LINES!
Ive got the clutch mods, heads ported, ive got stiffer valve springs/ with the guides, 32mm pummper with ran way faster with a 125 main. the plug was just alittle bit lighter brown.... PRIME
now that ran good
untill i built a steeper hill
then i got the CAM reground and i spun the 24inch itp mudlights all the way over the crest. web cam did a good job!
what you have to do is find the exact clearence of the valves then you can tell them how big you want the lifts should be
also R/D VALVES SPRINGS we need to see if they cam mod up over sized valves! i sent my whole head to them, rockers and all. a month later they sent me a set of sweet powder coated guids and seats.
after all that, i wanna put a street bike motor in the damn thing! the exaust is so loud also. what exaust mod options do i have?
SEABASS--- _________________ 07 250 joyner, uni, 32 pummper carb, royal purpal synthetic oil, 15 gramm sliders, 2500 rpm clutch spring, 24'' itp mud lights, high peformance cam from web cam, ported head, r/d valve springs. "Dreem as if you live forever, live as if youl die today"
Theres a fitting in grainger book,a metric to standard (female- metric end for tank nipple-male thread that would fit the home depot brass.then you could loose the hose.
What's this grainger book you're talking about? I'd like to be able to remove that hose set up. _________________ Ron
2007 Twister Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, aftermarket exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP pumper carb with 132.5 main jet, iridium plug (indexed), ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2005 Talon 150 (sold)
Allbones, the fitting on your gas tank is 3/8" pipe threads. Buy a brass 3/8" 90, a 3/8" to 1/4" brass reducing bushing and a brass 1/4" petcock with one end male and the other end a female and one 1/4" barb hose fitting. All the parts can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes. You can use a air compressor shut off valve for you petcock as long as it is all brass. I removed the petcock and filter assembly from my gas tank, screwed on the 90 to the 3/8" fitting on the bottom of the tank, next the 3/8" to 1/4" bushing to the 90, then the petcock, the barb next and ran the 1/4" fuel line to the carb. I then cut the fuel line at about the mid point and installed a clear inline fuel filter (a Napa part for lawnmowers) and for my piece of mind, I installed a hose clamp at the carb. I did all of this because I was tried of having to clean the intank screen about every fifth tank and the motor sputtering from not getting enough gas going through whoops and bouncing around. Once this mod was done, its runs like a top no matter what I put it through!
Hey Pud! Here's my next mod! _________________ Semper Fidelis
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