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<  Modifications - Mini Off Road Kart  ~  HH250 muffler gut job
supersoxy
Post Wed Mar 26, 2008 7:54 pm 
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I just wanted to show some pics of what I did to my HH250 stock muffler. They say this is already somewhat of a performance muffler, but I wanted to open it up a bit more. Below are some photos of this thing taken apart. The nuts on the end that kept it together were welded onto the rod, so I ground the welded part down enough that I could get the nut off. Then it comes apart pretty easy. Then, all I did was drill some more holes in the center baffle area to make it more free-flowing (third pic). Lastly, I took out all of the honeycomb-looking stuff at the inlet pipe (fourth pic) so it was completely opened up. It really didn't get much louder after the mod. To put it back together, I had to unscrew the rods a little bit and drill another hole for the cotter pin to go through. Then I put a lock washer and two nuts on the end to keep it from coming loose (last pic). Hope this helps anybody that was curious about opening one of these up.

hh250 muffler 2.jpg: 1 Time(s) Viewed, 1.87 MB

hh250 muffler 2.jpg

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hh250 muffler 3.jpg: 2 Time(s) Viewed, 2 MB

hh250 muffler 3.jpg

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hh250 muffler 4.jpg: 2 Time(s) Viewed, 1.45 MB

hh250 muffler 4.jpg

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hh250 muffler 5.jpg: 3 Time(s) Viewed, 1.22 MB

hh250 muffler 5.jpg

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hh250 muffler 1.jpg: 2 Time(s) Viewed, 1.62 MB

hh250 muffler 1.jpg

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Ron


2007 Twister Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, gutted exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP carb, iridium plug (indexed), ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2005 Talon 150 (sold)



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eggyhed
Post Wed Mar 26, 2008 10:41 pm 
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Ah, nice job Ron, do you notice a big differance.
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2bugva
Post Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:40 am 
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Padawan


Joined: 16 Mar 2008
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Location: Hills of Virginia

Thanks for the pictures would it be okay to not drill holes but just remove the plate.
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HH 250 Uni,140 Jet,Gutted Exhaust,Slimed Tires,Royal Purple Oil.RJS Seat Belts

HH 200 Stock,Slimed Tires,Royal Purple Oil RJS Seat Belts

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supersoxy
Post Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:14 am 
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I'm not sure, but I think the plate holds the packing material in place. If you completely removed the plate, I think the packing material would rattle loose and you'd have problems. You can gut that plate much more that what I did,though, if you really want to open it up. I heard a little back pressure is a good thing which is why I didn't go too crazy.
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2007 Twister Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, gutted exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP carb, iridium plug (indexed), ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2005 Talon 150 (sold)



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johnnyfazer
Post Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:39 pm 
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Great write-up and pics. I've looked at my HH250 muffler several times and noticed the welds. Glad to hear it doesn't take too much to take them apart and put back together again.

One major question - hows the performance now?

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supersoxy
Post Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:45 pm 
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I'd like to tell you that it made a big difference, but I really don't know. I did that, the UNI, and rejet at the same time and I did gain a couple mph top speed. I was mostly curious about what was in there and just decided to punch a few more holes while I had it open. It didn't cost me anything and I certainly didn't lose any performance. Hope that helps.
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Ron


2007 Twister Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, gutted exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP carb, iridium plug (indexed), ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2005 Talon 150 (sold)



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adnedarn
Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:40 am 
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Padawan


Joined: 27 Feb 2008
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Location: Tucson, Arizona

I drilled 8 3/8" holes in mine but did not remove the comb stuff... I finally found the right jet I think (140). I did not gain any top end, may have even lost 2 or so... I'm not sure I gained any low end performance either... Wonder if taking that comb out would make the difference... Rolling Eyes

I took a little different approach for taking mine apart... I just unscrewed the back and let it break off the carter pins in the front... The bought new all thread rods and drilled holes out the back of the muffler... then just put nuts on both ends :p

And you speak of packing material being held in place by the center plate... What are you talking about? I don't have anything in the muffler... Unless you mean the comb stuff....

Now I'm still on the hunt for top end speed mods... I can hit 39-41mph (by myself or with my wife, it doesn't matter) and I'd really like to get 46 or so (for those 45mph roads Very Happy )

Andrew

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2bugva
Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 5:34 am 
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Padawan


Joined: 16 Mar 2008
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Location: Hills of Virginia

I removed the center piece baffle it was just hanging there anyway cut off honey comb.One of the rods broke where the cotter pin goes ,so I used all thread,just drill two holes install all thread and I double nuted the ends.improvement in speed and power still working on finding the right jet size.
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HH 250 Uni,140 Jet,Gutted Exhaust,Slimed Tires,Royal Purple Oil.RJS Seat Belts

HH 200 Stock,Slimed Tires,Royal Purple Oil RJS Seat Belts

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supersoxy
Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:13 am 
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Inside the muffler, I think it's fiberglass packing that lines the inside. It's what muffles the sound.
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Ron


2007 Twister Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, gutted exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP carb, iridium plug (indexed), ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2005 Talon 150 (sold)



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adnedarn
Post Sat Mar 29, 2008 12:26 am 
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Padawan


Joined: 27 Feb 2008
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Oh, so you think the metal plate holds the metal mesh on the sides of the muffler that holds in the fill.. gotcha.

Today I removed the comb stuff in the pipe... And noticed zero difference in noise level or performance.

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