Thanks again guys. Just finished putting in 17gm sliders, 2500lb clutch spring, hit clutch, air intake with K&N filter and new 1/4" fuel line. All thats left is to jet it. Don't have the right jets yet. Going to get 135-145 main jets hopefully one will work. I would like to go out next weekend and shoot new video.
I'm doing the MRP 32mm carb upgrade as well. Below are some photos of what I got. I went with a 1/4 fuel line and an inline fuel valve from dennis kirk. I also got the fuel filters there. Spent about $25 and got my stuff in 2 days. I also did the 1/4 brass hose barb and used a hose to connect it do the tank. I haven't got it installed, yet, but should only take a few minutes. The stock fuel line was tiny compared to the 1/4 stuff.
You'll need to put some thought into where and how you'll support the cut-off valve. Make sure it's solidly attached. _________________ Chris Dierkens
'04 Yerf-Dog 3206 10g Rollers, 1500# Spring, Reverse, SuperTrapp, Uni
'04 KPX Xterro: pumper carb, oil cooling, 10g rollers, Junkies pipe, Uni
'05 Blade 150 DX: 4 Valve head, 10g rollers, East Side pipe, Uni
www.northeastbuggy.com
You'll need to put some thought into where and how you'll support the cut-off valve. Make sure it's solidly attached.
This may be a dumb question, but why would I need to support it? It's an inline valve. I have some moose racing wire clamps, but the line is really snug on the fittings and I'd be surprised if they came loose. _________________ Ron
2007 Hammerhead 250SS, UNI, a/m exhaust, 17 gram sliders, blue Polini torque spring, 32mm MRP pumper carb, 135 main jet, iridium plug, ITP mudlites 23x10x10 on the rear.
2003 Suzuki Eiger 4x4
2006 Baja 90 Shifter
2005 Talon 150 (sold)
You'll need to put some thought into where and how you'll support the cut-off valve. Make sure it's solidly attached.
This may be a dumb question, but why would I need to support it? It's an inline valve. I have some moose racing wire clamps, but the line is really snug on the fittings and I'd be surprised if they came loose.
Because if the valve isn't supported then everytime you cycle that valve the fuel line will move. It puts more stress on that line right at the clamps on each side of the valve. The line will wear and eventually fail. Of all things to fail this is not one of those that is good. Hot engine and fuel don't mix.
Plus, it's easier to cycle the valve. _________________ Chris Dierkens
'04 Yerf-Dog 3206 10g Rollers, 1500# Spring, Reverse, SuperTrapp, Uni
'04 KPX Xterro: pumper carb, oil cooling, 10g rollers, Junkies pipe, Uni
'05 Blade 150 DX: 4 Valve head, 10g rollers, East Side pipe, Uni
www.northeastbuggy.com
Theres a fitting in grainger book,a metric to standard (female- metric end for tank nipple-male thread that would fit the home depot brass.then you could loose the hose.
Hey guys I'm all for upgrading to larger fuel line on my 250, but how are you guys reducing the 1/4 inch line down at the carb? I've tried to put 1/4 line on the carb end but it leaks even with a hose clamp. _________________ ACE 250R2 uni with 125 jet, stock exhaust
150 sunl 130 jet, 39t sprocket, uni, blade performance pipe, 9.5gm rollers, 1500 spring, CDI
150 sunl-wasted engine-spare parts now
70cc Blade kart
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It's an inline valve. I have some moose racing wire clamps, but the line is really snug on the fittings and I'd be surprised if they came loose.
