Thanks Ckau, Thanks to all you guys. I'll tear it apart one more time. Maybe I'll just order new parts and then deal with the old ones later, as you suggested.
Now, I am confused how this could have occurred. I would imagine that only by the engine overheating. I never had any indication of the engine overheating or reason for it to overheat. I know that I had oil on my plug from the beginning, so I am curious if this head could have come to me this way? Possible? maybe worsened over time. and should I totally just forget the idea of valve guides leaking bye?
Now on top of those questions, how dang important is that plastic guard that wraps around the engine assembly. I was thinking it served a purpose in cooling the engine. In doing all this repair work recently, a screw came out on the exhaust side of this shroud and it fell down and burned off a section on the exhaust pipe. Now the bottom right corner of this shroud is not present because it was originally one whole piece and there is nothing to support it near the bottom to keep it in place . basically the whole bottom shroud assembly is now in two pieces. So, Is it imperitive to order a whole new shroud assembly? thoughts?
It's possible to have had this problem from the get -go. I have observed a brand new 250 carter with a bad head. [gasket failure due to bad machining quality control of the head] Don't rule out bad valve guides yet, see if the head seals good first. The shroud plays a very important part of engine cooling. It needs to be intact _________________ 3206 yerf. too many mods to list. easier to list what has not been modified- seats and steering wheel. plus one set of kidinme's hand made special collectors edition fuzzy dice. We support pole dancing.
the plastis is what directs air flow to the cylinder and helps keep it cool, so it is needed. that bottom part might be ok like it is.
if the head was not toqured down correctly then the head gasket would not seal good. just some thoughts. _________________ Blade buggies,Carter buggy's, ams (manco) , joyner, parts for almost anything
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well hurricane man, u should have let the rings seat in good before u run it verry hard. when i got my buggy i had a sheet in the owners manual that said when rebuilding the engine to let the rings seat in for 10hrs, before going full throttle. which i think is a bunch of crap, but i have rebuild the engine 3 times now. and have allways let the engine idle for 2-3 hrs before doing anything with it.. idk. what do you all think? _________________ Talon DLX 150 R
mods: K&N air filter
Performace Intake
High Performance 32mm Carburator
Champion 2000LB winch
9 Gram Rollers
XTV Exaust
Maxxis AllTracks 22x11-10
Redneck Snorkel
AKA "Out Cast"
Well, I just don't know and never heard of that before. I know everything was well lubricated before I put it back together, and it started, idled and ran great, each time.
I Haven't had any time to dig into the solution since monday, because I'm swamped doing that daily job, income support thing.
I really do suspect it's a warped head from the get go. Plus i'm no so sure I torqued everything down tight enough. Either way the same problem keeps erupting immediately. So that break in time period, is hard to swallow at this time. thanks for input. Keep it in the back of my mind for next go round.
I'll let everyone know what I find. Stay Tuned fior the latest Adventure of Hurricane Man. _________________ Trinity, NC - "The only place to be"
XT150 GK BMX
I will have the complete head and gaskets today or tomorrow if you need them. _________________ Blade buggies,Carter buggy's, ams (manco) , joyner, parts for almost anything
MRP dealer
Tucker Rocky Dealer
Vega Helmet dealer
I.T.P. tire and wheel dealer
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Okay, now brought to you live, The wild and crazy adventures of the "Hurricane Man";
Bought a new torque wrench to insure these 4 nuts on the rocker assembly were tightened properly. Started torqueing them and thought , wow, I didn't tighten them near enough. Then POP. busted a bolt. As I was tightening, I was becoming fearful, and decided to set the torque wrench to a lower setting of 160 inch pounds, as opposed to the 206 inch pound requirement. Then went a turn or two on each and then is when it happened. I don't know if the torque wrench is crap, if this can happen at any time to anyone, or I shouldn't touch another engine the rest of my life.
The bolt broke off somewhere in the middle. Is this bolt just threaded into the case? And how hard is it to remove ? Any insight before I screw something else up, would be greatly appreciated.
After this, I should be a fully qualified GY6 engine mechanic who can tell you anything that could go wrong. _________________ Trinity, NC - "The only place to be"
XT150 GK BMX
I had the same problem with my Yerf-Dog when I swapped out to a new A12 cam. tpg-info.net can get you the studs off a Crossfire 150. Two are shorter than the others. I replaced all four since I could not trust the material after that incident. I have mine torqued at 20 ft/lbs. The service manual specified 16 ft/lbs. while Buggy Depot measured 35 ft/lbs. from the factory. They now suggest 25 ft/lbs.
Sounds to me like your problem is definitely the rings. The puffing from the valve cover is pressure from the combustion chamber leaking past the rings into the crankcase traveling up the timing chain cavity and out the top of the head. This is what is supposed to happen but there should only be a very small amount. The oil is coming out of the exhaust because the rings cant wipe the oil off the cylinder walls on the down stroke. All this leakage lowers your effective compression and doesn't allow all that oil to burn. What actually gets ignited comes out as smoke the rest just seeps out anywhere it can.
You said you replaced the rings. What did the cylinder wall look like?
Is there a big ridge at the top? It could be worn (oversize) or not even round anymore.
Are there any scratches or gouges running up and down?
If none of the above is it shiny?
Any one of these thing will keep new rings from ever seating correctly. Whenever the rings are replaced the cylinder needs to be honed. It needs to be a little rough to let the rings wear into it. This won't help if the cylinder is worn too much or damaged. If there is any doubt about the cylinder replace it and the piston and rings (good time for that big bore). If you broke one of the head studs replace them all. Try to take it easy on the throttle for at least the first tank of gas and you shouldn't see anymore smoke. _________________ HH250ss- aftrmarket exhaust, 300EX carb, 22x7x10 holeshots on front 22x11x10 mudlites on rear
Heavily modified Carter Mini Talon
98 Honda XR650L
97 Arctic Cat 454 4x4
Okay, My engine is back and running with no oil on the plug. yee haaaa. But of course, i have one more question; I have an improved air filter , 128 jet, and gutted exhaust system. Now I see the plug running very hot. Will the air/fuel screw really do much ? I am at 3 turns out. Or do I just have to keep going up in fuel jet size until the plug looks right?
Might add that at top speed, I am popping. not sure what that is about.
when gutting that exhaust, I could not believe the amount of restriction that was in that original muffler design. _________________ Trinity, NC - "The only place to be"
XT150 GK BMX
sounds like you are running lean. what color is your plug? try a 130 or 135 _________________ Blade buggies,Carter buggy's, ams (manco) , joyner, parts for almost anything
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Tucker Rocky Dealer
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I.T.P. tire and wheel dealer
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Articles
busted a bolt. As I was tightening, I was becoming fearful, and decided to set the torque wrench to a lower setting of 160 inch pounds, as opposed to the 206 inch pound requirement. Then went a turn or two on each and then is when it happened. I don't know if the torque wrench is crap, if this can happen at any time to anyone, or I shouldn't touch another engine the rest of my life.
But of course, i have one more question; I have an improved air filter , 128 jet, and gutted exhaust system. Now I see the plug running very hot. Will the air/fuel screw really do much ? I am at 3 turns out. Or do I just have to keep going up in fuel jet size until the plug looks right?
