problems with lights on Hurricane 800cc (gk25A)

Posts: 198

Hello
the dealer I bought my buggy from are idiots and they couldnt figure out how to get the lights to work. I could see right away they didnt even put the fuse in. so I tried a 14A and it blew when I went to high beams. ok so then I tried 20A but that blew too when going to high beams. higher than 20A? weird I thought... so I try 30A Shocked

and this time when I go to high the lights stayed on but got extremely dim for 5 seconds then sputtered out. The 30A didnt blow so something else went Evil or Very Mad

. I then take the time to trace the whole wiring system out and thats when I find the main ground bolted to the frame (with the horn) was completely loose. those A-holes Evil or Very Mad

..... so now I feel like an idiot too, for not thinking about the ground frist Crying or Very sad

.

So I guess my question is if I ran 30 amps through the lighting system and fried something, what would it likely be the first thing that would have gone? Relay perhaps? Oh please tell me its easy like a relay..... I HATE wiring.....

Oh and one more thing, what is the proper fuse rating for the lights? btw my Hurricane model has the extra rack of little lights on top too.

Posts: 273

25A is fine, but any fuse holder you have on the buggy swap out with a 12 gauge wired fuse holder. The wireing is to thin for all the amps. passing through. Especially the cooling fan holder, it will melt. The lights you should rewire comlpetely and trash the little ones they are pretty much useless. Also the stock battery won't last, I added an extra one for more lights gauges and other stuff.

good luck

Pictures: 0 · Guest Pictures: 0

some dealers huh Rolling Eyes

Posts: 198

Thanks for the repies guys
Yeah the dealer also left dangling the clip holding the steering column tight towards the steering box (so the whole column could shift up and down) and the whole column fell off right in the middle of driving Shocked

. Luckily I wasnt drifiting at 40 mph Wink

They also left a burnt fuse in the cooling fan and it started to overheat. could have fried my motor on the first day. Evil or Very Mad

And they put no nut on the bolt holding the shifter to the shift rod so reverse became 4th. Evil or Very Mad

Also Every bolt holding the floor panel down was totally loose. Evil or Very Mad

Im lucky to be alive.... Rolling Eyes

Anyway back on topic. So after ditching the chingo stuff what type/brand of lights did you use and did it come with wiring?

And I would still appreciate a clue about what I could have fried with the 30A I put in, cause now it wont work at all with any fuse, low or high beam....

Posts: 423

about the lights....Mine would always blow a fuse when I ran the uppers and the lowers at the same time.
Doing the math said I needed a 25 amp fuse to run five (5) 55watt lights. (55x5=275watts divided by 12volts = 22.9 amps)
My buggy has two separate relays for the "low" and "high" beams, but only one fuse in front of these. When I upgraded to the larger fuse, the fuse holder and small diameter wire actually melted!!

Here is what I did: follow the large red wire coming from your winch switch. It will terminate in a bundle of electrical tape and other wires right there in the front of the buggy. On my ride the lighting relays are located nearby and quite obvious to see. I cut the electrical tape "sleeving" carefully away from around the fuse holder and followed it back to the bundle where the winch switch is wired from. There is a large "main" bus line from the battery wrapped up in that bundle, also quite obvious. (disconnect your battery ground as a precaution before doing any of this work) In the other direction you will find where the "fuse" wire "Tee's" to a wire that goes to the two relays.

To summarize, a too small wire conductor ties the battery power thru an inadequately sized fuse that then "Tee's" to the two relays that control the "lo" and "high" beams.

Your job is to wire separate larger gage wires and separate fuse holders to the two lighting relays. This is pretty easy as most "wired" fuse holders come with wire"tails" that can be spliced in to your new 12ga lead wires. You should now need only 20amp fuses in each.

The reason your lights probably don't work after the 30amp fuse ordeal, is that the too small wire probably melted, acting like a "fuseable link".

HTH..Mick

Posts: 198

Wow

that is exactly what I needed to know...you sir are my hero Very Happy

Sounds like Im going through the same ordeal that you went through. Its really great to have someone point me in the right direction instead of me slicing the wiring to hell trying to find it.... I will definitely wire it up how you suggested with seperate fuses for each relay. But that leaves me with one more question tho, what controls the little lights on top? is there another relay somewhere?

Again, I cant thank you enough for sharing this info with me. did you make that diagram just for me Embarassed

?? You tha man... Cool

Posts: 423

I can't speculate about your "little" lights as my buggy only had two 55 watt "lo" beams and three 55watt "high" beam uppers. By uppers, I mean they are located on the top rack. I have since replaced the three lights with two PIAA "white" lights with the same 55watt draw each. More light now with less total current draw.

I did the diagram by way of explanation. You know what they say..."A picture is worth.....etc"

Mine is an 05' model and hopefully, the newer ones are better thought out.
Good luck with it,
mick

Posts: 198

mine only came with 4 55w lights... I would gladly trade all the little lights for one more 55w. But I guess in the end they all suck compared to KC or PIAA lights anyway.