I got this ideal from the link above, nyrocks atv forum. I'm no expert so try this at your own risk! Don't want to be responsible for tore up belt or cvt.
Took a flat washer 2mm thick, drilled the center out to 5/8" and filed it flat. Pulled outside pulley off, installed shim, reinstall pulley and tighten down nut, real simple.
In the pictures you can see how much higher the belt is on the back pulley. The shim allows the belt to ride lower on the front pulley giving you lower gearing on take off but you do lose top end speed.
I have some steep hills in the backyard and it climbs them much better now. Top speed was 43 mph but don't know how much I lost, have to trailer it somewhere to see.
Don't know long term effect on belt as belt is making tighter radius turn on front pulley on take off. I also am running 15gr sliders and heavy duty clutch spring and don't know if it would make a difference without them, but it's a cheap mod (free) and easily reversible and will help if you're running larger tire's (I'm running 23").
mully
P1010018.JPG: 8 Time(s) Viewed, 604.13 KB This is with shim installed, belt is lower on front and higher on back pulley changing your gearing
Here some more pictures.
On the atv post it says to use a harden shim but I used a common washer, it's jammed tight between the outside pulley half and the inner sleeve.
mully
P1010019.JPG: 11 Time(s) Viewed, 646.52 KB here you can see the shim installed between the outside pulley half and the inner sleeve
Will the addition of the washer have any effect on the outer section of the variator splines? You just reduced the spline surface area by 2mm. Does not sound like much but when working with aluminum on steel I will take every mm I can get to keep it from failing.
RH _________________ Carter Talon GX150IIR, KOSO Clutch, 9 gr rollers, KOSO variator, 1500 RPM spring, CVT snorkel, K&N filtered crankcase+trans vents, Red neck intake w/ uni filter, modified DLX muffler, 132 jet, drilled and shimmed slide, hot coil, hp CDI unit, skid plate.
fireman1, that sounds like a valid point but I did warn to try at your own risk That outer pulley half on the splines is also sandwiched tight on the shaft and in my humble opinion will hold up, time will tell. But boy can you tell the difference on take off and climbing hills and its easier than putting on a larger sprocket and longer chain(imho).
The suzuki guys are doing it to there 700cc kingquads that are putting out 50hp and they are holding up. One guy is having his variator hogged out where the roller sits at when in lower rpms and putting in larger diameter rollers so he still has the lower gearing and the larger diameter rollers pushes in the pulley half all the way for no loss in top speed.
I think this shim in the variator mod would work on the 150 also but I don't own one to try it.
mully _________________ Challenger 250, uni airfilter, 1 1/2" header pipe-supertrap,130 main jet, iridium sparkplug (ngk dpr7eix-9), 15gr sliders, HD clutch spring, blaster,vw,shocks
suzuki kingquad 700, 2.5 warn winch,
26x9x12,26x12x12-mudlites
kawasaki kfx 700
wouldnt putting a spacer there cause the belt to slip?
it does look like a good idea,..
but probly no different than running a thinner stronger belt.
a worn belt would ride just as low,
plus with the spacer in wouldnt a worn belt slip?
just curious cause i only have maybe 15 hours on my talon, and the belt is already worn down 1/4 of an inch already.
wouldnt putting a spacer there cause the belt to slip?
it does look like a good idea,..
but probly no different than running a thinner stronger belt.
a worn belt would ride just as low,
plus with the spacer in wouldnt a worn belt slip?
I thought the same thing, but the inner face takes up the slack.
Thanks for the tip, I wouldn't have thought of this. I went to ace hardware and got a machine bushing that fit. They look like washers but the center hole is much bigger and they are already flat. A lot less work as you can use them w/o having to modify them and they are only about 50 cents. You can get them in different thicknesses.
I got 2 different thicknesses (15 & 18 guage I think) I but the thicker one in first and it moved the top of the belt right to the top of the clutch pully just like the photo in the post above, so I'm guessing it was about 2 mm thick. Then I noticed that the top 1/4 inch or so of the clutch pully fans outward so I'm thinking I've got very little grip on the belt in that area so it might slip. Minefull of the comment above about aluminum and the lack of spline depth I replaced the shim w/ the thinner one. It was about 1/2 as thick as the 1st one. This lowered the belt so that the top of the belt was even with where the pully starts to fan outward. This gives me full contact w/ the belt and puts more of the spline inside of the variator. Seems like a good compromise at this point
Amazing how just putting a very thin shim in there will move the belt on the clutch side so much. While I had it apart I noticed that I had a grove worn down low in the variator. Must be from the belt slipping on hills. _________________ 05 Jehm Adventure Buggy 250cc, Torque Spring, 22.5gr Rollers, Modified Roll Cage, K&N, 21x7x10 & 22x11x10 Trac Star Radials, Vapor, Body Panels, 40T Spkt
&
2003 Jehm Blazer 125cc, Vapor
10 gram rollers, 20x10x8 Razr's,
34 tooth sprocket, 9pk cooler
im rather curious how your top speed was affected..
being as the forward cvt gear is widened, that would also mean that the variater wouldnt close as much, and the belt wouldnt ride as high on the front!. theroredially speaking...
thanks in advance for the input and the idea on the mod..
Articles
That outer pulley half on the splines is also sandwiched tight on the shaft and in my humble opinion will hold up, time will tell. But boy can you tell the difference on take off and climbing hills and its easier than putting on a larger sprocket and longer chain(imho).
